London (England) -- Description and travel; London (England) -- History -- 1800-1950
’I reached London,’ he says, ’towards the close of the day ... and at
last, quite by chance, I found myself settled in an apartment in the
house of the _Cruisinier Royal_ in Leicester Fields. This neighbourhood
is filled with small houses, which are mostly let to foreigners.’ On
the following day he walked down Holborn and the Strand to St. Paul’s,
then crossed London Bridge, and returned to his hotel by walking through
Southwark and Lambeth to Westminster, ’a district full of mean houses
and meaner taverns.’ The localities named have not greatly altered
their character since then. In another place our traveller says: ’Even
from the bridges it is impossible to get a view of the river, as the
parapets are ten feet high.... The reason given for all this is the
inclination which the English, and the Londoners especially, have for
suicide. It is true that above and below the town the banks are
unprotected, and offer an excellent opportunity to those who really wish
to drown themselves; but the distance is great, and, besides, those who
wish to leave the world in this manner prefer doing so before the eyes
of the public. The parapets, however, of the new bridge [Blackfriars]
which is being built will be but of an ordinary height.’ Suicidal
tendencies must indeed have greatly declined, since the most recently
erected bridges, the new Westminster and Blackfriars, have particularly
low parapets.
Of the streets our author says: ’They are paved in such a manner that it
is barely possible to ride or walk on them in safety, and they are
always extremely dirty.... The finest streets ... would be impassable
were it not that on each side ... footways are made from four to five
feet wide, and for communication from one to the other across the street
there are smaller footways elevated above the general surface of the
roadway, and formed of large stones selected for the purpose.... In the
finest part of the Strand, near St. Clement’s Church, I noticed, during
the whole of my stay in London, that the middle of the street was
constantly covered with liquid stinking mud, three or four inches
deep.... The walkers are bespattered from head to foot.... The
natives, however, brave all these disagreeables, wrapped up in long blue
coats, like dressing-gowns, wearing brown stockings and perukes, rough,
red and frizzled.’
Well, we cannot find much fault with this description, unflattering as
it is, for in the last century London certainly was one of the most
hideous towns to live in, and its inhabitants the most uncouth,
repulsive set of ’guys’! Concerning Oxford Street our author makes a
false prognostic: ’The shops of Oxford Street will disappear as the
houses are sought after for private dwellings by the rich. Soon will
the great city extend itself to Marylebone, which is not more than a
quarter of a league distant. At present it is a village, principally of
taverns, inhabited by French refugees.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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