If the Walls of our city possess this great interest for us, what shall
we say of our Rows? They are practically unique. Other cities and towns
have their Walls, but no other place, in England at any rate, has
anything like the Rows. And their origin is veiled in obscurity. It
is very difficult to give such a description of them as shall enable
one who has not seen them to realise what they are like. The late Dean
Howson spoke of them as “public highways passing through the front part
of the drawing-rooms on the first floor of a series of houses, the
windows being taken out, while the inner parts of these drawing-rooms
are converted into shops, the bedrooms being overhead, and the
passengers walking over the rooms of the ground storey, these rooms
again being converted into shops.” Mr. Pennant in his _Tour_ gives
this description, founded, as we shall see, upon a mistaken idea as to
their origin:--“The principal streets run direct from east to west and
from north to south, and were excavated out of the earth, and sunk many
feet below the surface. The carriages are driven far below the level
of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of shops, over which passengers
walk in galleries, which the inhabitants call the Rows, secure from
wet or heat. In the Rows are likewise ranges of shops and steps to
descend into the street.” Without giving earlier descriptions, it will
be gathered, that in the main streets within the city Walls there are
covered galleries over the shops on the street level, which also are
lined with shops. The walks in these galleries do not come quite to the
street frontage, as opposite each shop there is, as a rule, a “stall,”
or sloping platform, on which goods may be exposed, though in some few
instances this space is occupied by buildings of a permanent character.
The stalls are protected from the street to which they are open by
balustrades, some of which are of oak and of varying and handsome old
patterns. As the shops represent different properties, there is a
pleasing lack of uniformity about the Rows. In some instances we have
the half-timbered architecture for which Cheshire is famous, in others
houses of the date of Queen Anne; whilst in recent times some have been
rebuilt and made more in accordance with modern requirements, though
due regard has latterly been paid to the character of the ancient
buildings. The walk in Eastgate and Bridge Street is continuous, and
here are the best and principal shops; in the other streets the walk is
interrupted by intervening lanes or streets, except on the south side
of Watergate Street, where there are some very striking houses, such as
“Bishop Lloyd’s Palace,” or “God’s Providence House.” The variety is
also seen in the height of the colonnade, which is sometimes through
the older houses quite low, and in the more modern ones much higher. On
the west side of Bridge Street there is, in fact, barely headroom for a
very tall person in some parts, but here there are no shops in the Row,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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