Laurence, in all the panoply of a great mondaine at a feast given in
her honor, was somehow or other entirely out of it. This was
something never dreamt of before: a dinner at one of the most ancient
houses of a far-off Russian province, carried out with the pompous
ceremonial and curious discomforts of past days, in a banqueting-hall
spacious enough to shelter an army and evidently open to all the
winds of heaven. It was raining heavily outside, with no promise of
better things to come, and from her place she could see files of
servants in full livery running to and fro from the kitchen--built
_à la mode d’il-y-a longtemps_, in the middle of the inner
court--bearing covered silver dishes, all adrip with the diluvian
downpour. The majordomo, stiff as a ramrod, advanced as far as the
edge of the glass marquise every five minutes or so, to convey his
orders in a withering autocratic voice which grew sweet as honey the
minute he re-entered the banqueting-hall, and the four butlers in
attendance marched and countermarched with the omnipresent lacqueys,
all attired in the Chouróff scarlet and gold, like captains heading
small detachments of troops. What manner of country was this?
Another surprising anachronism--at least so it appeared to her--was
the fact that albeit this was an occasion when, to use the French
simile, the little dishes had been rammed into the big ones (_les
petits plats dans les grands_), yet the feudal custom of “guests
below the salt” was strictly adhered to. Indeed, the implacable
etiquette of the House of Chouróff separated the festive board into
two exact parts, one reserved for ceremoniously invited gentlemen and
ladies, the other for the poor relatives, the hangers-on, and the
household proper--comprising tutors, governesses, the Polish
land-steward, a host of lady companions, another of penniless noble
damsels awaiting the Countess’s good pleasure to obtain a small
“dot” from her generosity, the almoner, the medical officer of the
district, and other functionaries of similar importance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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