_Pileus_ smooth, fleshy, umbilicate, of a dull rufous orange, turning pallid from exposure to light and air, but zoned with concentric circles of a brighter hue; margin smooth, at first involute, and then becoming expanded; from three to five inches across. Flesh firm full of orange-red milk, which turns green on exposure to the air, as does any part of the plant when bruised. _Gills_ decurrent, narrow, each dividing into two, three several times from the stem to the edge of the pileus; of a dull yellow by reflected light, but being translucent, the red milk shines brightly through them. _Stem_ from one to three inches high, slightly bent and tapering downwards; solid, becoming more or less hollow with age; short hairs at the base; sometimes pitted (scrobiculate). There is no possibility of mistaking this fungus. It is the only one which has _orange-red milk_, and which _turns green when bruised_. These properties distinguish it at once from _Lactarius torminosus_ or _necator_, the only fungus which in any way resembles it. This acrid fungus (_Lactarius torminosus_) is somewhat similar in shape and size, and is also zoned. But the involute edges of the pileus are bearded with close hairs. It is of a much paler colour, and with gills of a dirty white. The milk, also, is white, acrid, and unchangeable in colour. The Orange-milk agaric chiefly affects the Scotch fir-tree, and is generally to be found beneath the drip of the branches around the tree. It is also found in hedgerows occasionally, but is most abundant in plantations of Scotch fir or larch. _Opinions on the Merits of Lactarius deliciosus as an Edible Fungus._--“This is one of the best agarics with which I am acquainted, fully deserving both its name and the estimation in which it is held abroad, it reminds me of tender lambs’ kidneys.”--_Dr. Badham._ “Very luscious eating, full of rich gravy, with a little of the flavour of mussels.”--_Sowerby._ “Cook them well, and you will have something better than kidneys, which they much resemble both in flavour and consistence.”--_Mrs. Hussey._ _Modes of Cooking Lactarius deliciosus._--“The rich gravy it produces is its chief characteristic, and hence it commends itself to make a rich gravy sauce, or as an ingredient in soups. It requires delicate cooking, for though fleshy it becomes tough if kept on the fire till all the juice is exuded. Baking is perhaps the best process for this agaric to pass through. It should be dressed when fresh and pulpy.”--_Edwin Lees._ _Stewed Deliciosus._--“The _tourtière_ (or pie-dish) method of cooking suits _Lactarius deliciosus_ best, as it is firm and crisp in substance. Be careful to use only sound specimens. Reduce them by cutting across to one uniform bulk. Place the pieces in a pie-dish, with a little pepper and salt, and a small piece of butter on each side of every slice. Tie a paper over the dish, and bake gently for three-quarters of an hour. Serve them up in the same hot dish.”--_Mrs. Hussey._