This evening we had a famous _embroglio_ between our chaouch and the marabout. The latter had caught a waran, or large species of lizard, and skinned it to dispose of the skin. The chaouch impudently swore he had been eating the flesh of the reptile--a direful accusation. A tremendous war of words ensued; and not of words only, for presently the holy man came in for a gratification of ropes' end. All the Fezzanees rushed forward to save the honour of the marabout; and the chaouch retreated to my tent in search of arms. A stupid joke was on the point of leading to murder. I interfered, and succeeded in appeasing the storm in some degree. I then rated the chaouch soundly for beating a man invested with a sacred character in the eyes of all Musulmans. This produced a good effect, and the culprit, hanging his head, seemed ashamed of the part he had played. Subsequently he kissed the hand of the holy man, and they were reconciled. CHAPTER V. More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water and Herbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--Hot Wind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The Chaouches astray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of the Oasis--Tempest--Native Huts--Official Visits--Desert News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Move on--The Kaïd--Modest Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--Vast Plain--Instinct of the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede the Caravan--Reach Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--Acting Pasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in the Desert.