Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
We went a little before sunset to visit the town. The houses are of
mud, and built on the sides of the hill. They appear as if one was
pulled on another. The passages or streets between them are narrow,
and, in two or three instances, excavations through the rock. The
exposed rocks denote the same composition as the insulated hills on
the salt plain. The ascent was steep in some places, and we had to
pass through the mosque before we arrived at the highest portion. From
this we had a fine view of wadey Shiati in every direction. The
wadey runs nearly east and west: in the former direction it is well
inhabited as far as Oml’abeed: this is the westernmost town; and
although, from this position, the soil appears favourable, there are
no inhabitants between this and Ghadamis. A range of hills forms the
northern boundary: these run as far as Ghadamis, and end easterly, in
the hills about Oml’abeed. A low range forms the southern boundary;
and between them and the wadey Ghrurbi all is sand. Many houses are
in ruins, and many more are approaching to that state. Still it is
called the new town, although its appearance little entitles it to
that appellation; but the ancient inhabitants lived in excavations
in the rocks, the remains of which are very distinct. We saw numerous
recesses, but thought they were produced by the present race digging
for pipe-clay, and the natural mouldering away of the soft rock. When
we had finished our visit, we were told the former people lived
in these holes. At the bottom of the hill we entered several, not
much decayed by time. Most of them are oblong spaces, about ten or
twelve feet long, and seven feet high. The entrances of all these had
mouldered away very much. At a hundred yards, however, from the base
of the hill, and now used as burying ground, there is a subterranean
house of large dimensions, and probably the residence of the great
personage. The entrance was more than half filled up with sand and
small stones that had been thrown in. Clapperton and I entered, and
found three extensive galleries, which communicated only by small
openings, in passing through which we had to stoop considerably. But
the galleries were high (nearly seven feet), and of considerable
length (about 150 feet), and each had several small recesses, like
sleeping rooms. The whole had neatness about it, and showed a taste in
the excavators. There are no traces of similar abodes in Fezzan. The
present race are entirely ignorant of the ancient occupiers. The
people are so afraid, and so superstitious, that scarcely one of
the town had ever entered it. They were astonished when we entered
without ceremony; and two, encouraged by our example, brought us a
light, by which we were enabled to look into the different recesses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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