Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
Saturday, July 27. Early in the morning numerous visitors paid their
respects to Hateeta, and were introduced in due form to us. We felt
the length of time spent in salutations quite fatiguing, and so absurd
in our eyes, that we could scarcely at times retain our gravity. Our
visitors were mostly residents of the city, and all were decorated
in their best. There was a sedateness and gravity in the appearance
of all, which the dress tended greatly to augment. There were three
natives of Gadames, one of whom knew us through our worthy friend
Mahomet D’Ghies; another we had seen in the house of Dr. Dickson;
and the third was well acquainted with European manners, having been
over at Leghorn.
In the afternoon we visited the sultan. Mats had been spread in the
castle, in a small ante-chamber. The old man was seated, but rose
up to receive us and welcome us to his city. He apologized for not
waiting on us; but said he was sick, and had been very little out
for some time. He had guinea-worm, and a cataract was forming in his
eyes. He was dressed in a nearly worn out tobe, and trowsers of the
same colour; and round his head was wrapped an old piece of yellow
coarse cloth for a turban. Notwithstanding the meanness of the dress,
there was something pleasing and prepossessing in his countenance,
and such a freeness as made us soon quite as much at home as if in
our tents. We presented him with a sword, with which he was highly
pleased. Hateeta wished it had been a bornouse; but we had none with
us we considered sufficiently good. We were led away by the title,
sultan. We had no idea the Tuaricks were so vain; for they used to
be filling us with high notions of the wealth and greatness of the
people here.
Our interview was highly interesting; and every one seemed much
pleased with us. The old sultan showed us every kindness; and we
had every reason to believe him sincere in his good wishes. After
our visit we called at the house of Lameens, son of the kadi. He is
a young man of excellent character, and universally respected. His
father is now in Ghadames, arranging with some of the other principal
inhabitants the affairs of the community. He had left directions
with his son to show us every attention. His house was neatly
fitted up, and carpets spread on a high bed, on which we seated
ourselves. Several of the people who were in the castle came along
with us, and by the assistance of those that could speak Arabic, we
were able to keep up a tolerably good conversation. On inquiring about
the Tuarick letters, we found the same sounds given them as we had
before heard from others. We were here at the fountain head, but were
disappointed in not being able to find a book in the Tuarick language;
they told us there was not one. Some only of the Tuaricks speak the
Arabic. We were the more astonished to find this, when we considered
the great intercourse between them and nations that speak Arabic only.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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