Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
Standing upon a rocky vantage-point, we have the two lofty, isolated
rocks, or 'stacks,' full in view; rising from the surging ocean that
rolls in foaming eddies around their feet. Countless sea-birds wheel
with harsh, discordant cries around their weathered sides; where every
available ledge and cranny of the rocks is peopled with a multitude
of feathered bipeds, huddled together close as herrings in a barrel.
Here, cheek-by-jowl in sociable good-fellowship, cluster clumsy
guillemots (or'eligugs,' as they call them locally), razorbills,
and ridiculous-looking puffins in clerical black and white; while
kittiwakes, sea-pies and dark-green cormorants dart about athwart the
waves, or, perched upon some projecting ledge, pursue their morning
toilette with the utmost _insouciance_.
The eggs of these birds are of rather peculiar form. Very large at one
end and pointed at the other, their sides are curiously flattened; this
nice provision of Nature rendering them less liable to roll off the
narrow ledges of the rocks which are their resting-place.
Inexorable time forbids our rambling farther around the trend of the
sea-cliffs; so we reluctantly quit their breezy summits to hie away
inland past the lonely chapel of Flimston; keeping straight ahead
through sandy lanes glorified with hedges of golden gorse, and 'the
swete bramble floure' of good old Chaucer. Presently we come in sight of
the tall steeple of Warren Church on the rise of the hill before us.
A long mile westward from our present road lies Bullibur, where traces
of an ancient chapel have been brought to light at a spot to this day
known as the 'Church Ways.' Anent the erection of this little edifice,
the story runs that, as fast as ever the builders could raise their
stones from day to day, the Prince of Darkness came along and demolished
their handiwork during the night.
Be that as it may, we now press on to Warren; whose fine old church has
a massive tower and spire, of such lofty height as to form a notable
landmark to pilots far away at sea. The tunnel-vaulted nave and porch,
with a well-preserved cross in the churchyard, complete the tale of
Warren's _notabilia_.
With a final glance around the wide-extended landscape, encircled by a
blue stretch of the distant Channel, we shape our course over some
rising ground at a place called Cold Comfort--a tantalizing misnomer
this torrid afternoon. Our road then winds down the hill to a fresh,
clear stream, running through water-meadows where cattle stand knee-deep
in the cooling shallows; and so, crossing Stem Bridge, we enter the
confines of the ancient Honour of Pembroke.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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