Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
Far away upon the glassy waters of the Haven, a handful of vessels lie
at anchor off Hobb's Point, where the old coach-road runs down to the
ferry. All this is soon lost to view as we descend to a tree-shaded
dingle, aglow with foxgloves, campion and yellow _fleur-de-lys_. Anon
our path winds upwards across an open hillside, amidst acres of glowing
gorse; passing a few lonely thatched cottages, with donkeys browsing
leisurely about their open doors.
At a place called Wallaston Cross five lanes converge, necessitating a
consultation with the trusty Ordnance map. The choice falls upon an
upland road, running along the brow of a hill, that raises us just high
enough to peep across the Haven to Milford town, and the towers of
distant Pembroke; over which we catch a glimpse of the Precelly hills,
lying far away upon the northern horizon.
Down in a sequestered dell, overlooking the estuary, nestles the little
church of Pwllcroghan; its low tower and dumpy spire scarce out-topping
a grove of tempest-torn trees.
Long ago this lowly edifice was restored by Ralph de Beneger, a former
Rector, whose counterfeit presentment reposes in his church beneath a
canopy bearing the inscription: 'Hic jacet Radulphus Beneger, hujus
ecclesiæ Rector.' In 1648 a skirmish took place in Pwllcroghan
churchyard, between the Royalist and Parliamentary troops; when it is
recorded that 'the malignants, as was their custom, displayed on their
hats the legend, "We long to see our King."'
Trudging steadily onwards, we pass near Hênllan House, formerly a
possession of the Whites of Tenby; a place which still keeps its old
Welsh name amidst all its Saxon neighbours. That rascally vagrant the
cuckoo now pipes up from a neighbouring coppice, and 'tells his name to
all the hills' in monotonous iteration; while lovely Silver-washed
Fritillaries and sky-blue butterflies flit to and fro beside the
hedgerow.
At a crook of the lane we turn through a gate, and follow the
'fore-draught' down to Eastington farmhouse, where the good-natured
farmer and his better-half provide bed and board for the coming night; a
vast convenience in this unfrequented district, which offers no
accommodation of a higher type than the ordinary hedge alehouse.
After despatching a modest repast, in which the staff of life forms the
backbone of our fare, we resume our devious ramble. An unmistakeable
footpath leads past the ruins of a deserted water-mill to the shore of
Angle Bay, whose calm blue waters, spreading broadly into the land,
mirror a cloudless sky of unrivalled purity. Skirting an ancient
moss-grown wall which, for some inscrutable reason, encloses a tract of
apparently valueless marshland, we roam across the shingly beach towards
a group of isolated buildings. Pale yellow sea-poppies, taking heart of
grace to brave the lusty breezes, beautify the waste places with their
delicate flowers; and groups of cattle, standing knee-deep in the
shallows, add a touch of life to the pleasant, tranquil scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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