Northern Nut Growers Association Report of the Proceedings at the 44th Annual Meeting: Rochester, N.Y. August 31 and September 1, 1953
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association Report of the Proceedings at the 44th Annual Meeting: Rochester, N.Y. August 31 and September 1, 1953
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
MR. CHASE: We reported this, I think, at our Beltsville meeting several
years ago. Trees we had at Norris are Carpathian types secured from the
Wisconsin Horticultural Society about 1940. After two years in the
nursery they were planted, and last year, 1952, was the first year that
they bore any nuts. But that was simply because we did not have a late
frost last year. This year, they were all frosted again. So we have, in
the South, from Virginia and Tennessee to a little farther southward,
a problem of early vegetation of English walnuts. We should encourage
everyone to watch for any late vegetating kinds for trial in the South.
MR. STOKE: Dr. Dunstan reported two walnut trees in North Carolina,
where the season is about ten days earlier than at my place in Virginia
that blossomed after the first of May. I am going to investigate these
trees further.
DR. MCKAY: We have about five minutes that we might devote to some other
problem. Nearly all of us do grafting work of one sort or another. Do I
have a question from the floor on grafting?
MR. MACHOVINA: With cleft grafts or splice grafts held with grafting
rubbers, do you have to cut the rubbers?
DR. MACDANIEL: If it's a chestnut and you have it waxed, I think the
answer is yes.
MR. MACHOVINA: The wax is a hot wax and the rubber does not disintegrate
very quickly.
DR. MACDANIEL: Probably you will have to cut it on species in which the
growth bulges up between the turns of the rubber. This is true of
chestnuts in particular, possibly persimmons, walnuts probably not quite
so much trouble. Let's hear from one of the nurserymen.
MR. BERNATH: I think the best way is after the union is firm enough, to
cut the rubber with a sharp knife.
MR. STOKE: I'd make one qualification. I said I didn't think you had to
cut rubber. I think that's true with grafting above ground. Underneath
ground, with moisture around it, it should be cut.
MR. BERNATH: If you leave the rubber on and bury it, that lasts for
years. Even above ground you find it sometimes.
MR. PATAKY: If you get a fast-growing callus, you have to cut the rubber
band, but if it is rather slow you don't. I do a lot of budding with
roses. I don't cut the rubber bands off, because they will eventually
drop off. If you graft a black walnut or Persian, you will have to cut
it or it will girdle the graft.
MR. STOKE: It doesn't do it for me.
A MEMBER: Has anybody done work with polyethylene film in grafting?
MR. BECKER: I hesitate to tell you my experiment. I don't think much of
it. I used polyethylene bags on chestnuts early in the season, and
practically every one grew, but everything else that was out in the hot
sun boiled. In the hot weather of June the grafts actually cook in the
bags.
MR. MACHOVINA: Did you use a bag over the whole graft, or just a tube
around it?
MR. BECKER: A bag over the whole thing. I have a few Carpathian grafts
that grew well. I think I have better luck with hot wax than anything
else.
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