MR. MCCOY: Exactly on the front side. Now you understand this grafting is done when the sap is flowing, or about the time the sap flow begins. Usually at our latitude here you will commence grafting anywhere from the 6th of April to about that time in May. Of course when you are cutting trees at that time you have got an immense flow of sap. Mr. Jones tried this method without drainage, that is the way they do out in Louisiana, but he only got ten per cent to stick, so we had to work out a drainage for ourselves. Take a piece of heavy wrapping paper, rather good quality such as you can get at any paper store, and put it right over your graft, and a little bit below the cut on your stock. Then simply take a piece of raffia and wrap. Then make the ordinary tie that anyone knows how to make with the cotton or twine, or sometimes with the raffia, and you have the drainage of this paper. The tie, of course, is simply to re-enforce the strain on the graft and hold it. Then you apply the grafting wax. The one we use is three of resin, one of beeswax, and lampblack and a little bit of linseed oil. Cover up the graft entirely, except don't cover over the lower end of this paper because there is the drainage where the sap flows out. Then you put an ordinary paper sack right over it, and leave it on for about three weeks. A MEMBER: You don't tie the paper below the raffia? MR. MCCOY: That does not make any difference. A MEMBER: At what time do you cut a hole in the bag to give it air, or do you do that? MR. MCCOY: Not for two or three weeks. (Mr. McCoy now gives a demonstration in budding.) We will suppose this is a seedling and I want to bud it. I place my budder on like that. Now I have got my shield up. Now I lay my budder on the stock something like that. MR. SMITH: Why not wrap over the bud? Mr. MCCOY: Because it will injure it. It is essential to cover all the cut surface you can. Make it waterproof at the top, and have it open at the bottom. MR. POTTER: How long does that stay on the bud? MR. MCCOY: I don't know as that makes any difference unless you want to force the bud. MR. MCELDERRY: When do you take that off? MR. MCCOY: I don't know as that makes any difference. I have thousands of them that have been on five or six weeks. I take it off when action begins. It varies, it may be two weeks and it may be six and it might be six months. If you have maximum budding conditions generally the tree itself will tell the story. We frequently take it off and have to rewrap. MR. W. C. REED: Would ten days be too quick? MR. MCCOY: In most cases, yes. MR. REED: Fruit trees is two weeks, but pecan trees are not quite as quick? MR. MCCOY: Pecan trees will come through the rye about as quick as a peach tree. MR. REED: I am talking about cherry trees. MR. MCCOY: I think about twenty or twenty-five days is about right. You know as well as I do that cases are not all alike, and you have to know when to unwrap.