Northern Nut Growers Association, Report of the Proceedings at the Third Annual Meeting: Lancaster, Pennsylvania, December 18 and 19, 1912
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association, Report of the Proceedings at the Third Annual Meeting: Lancaster, Pennsylvania, December 18 and 19, 1912
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
In from two to five years the trees will be ready for budding and
grafting, they will have made a good growth above ground, and a bigger
one below, they are permanently placed and haven't got to be set back a
year or two, or perhaps killed, by transplanting, with loss to the tap
roots and laterals. In the writer's opinion that natural tap root of the
nut tree growing down, down to water is not to be treated as of no
importance.
So let your seedlings grow up and down happily while you get ready the
stuff with which to build their future character, for seedling trees are
very slow in coming into bearing, and uncertain in type and quality of
nut. Grafted trees bear early and true to type.
Take your choicest bit of ground and put it in the best shape you know
how. Then order the finest grafted trees you can find on the market.
(See circular on "Seedsmen and Nurserymen".) Your choice will be limited
for there are as yet only a few grafted varieties of the Persian walnut
and the Indiana pecan, and but one of the shagbark hickory to be had. Of
chestnuts there are more and, in the South of course, plenty of pecans.
But pecan growing in the South is another story. If you order chestnuts
be sure that they do not come from a nursery infected with blight. Get
young trees because they are more easily established.
Order from two to four of each variety. Fewer than two gives too small
an allowance for mortality and more than four, besides the not
inconsiderable strain on the pocket, will divide your attention too
much; for you have got to give these trees the care of a bottle baby.
Set them sixty feet apart if you have the room. If not set them closer.
Better closer if that means better care. They may be set in the fall but
probably spring is better, as early as you can get them in. Follow the
instructions of the nurserymen closely. Digging holes with dynamite is
probably good practice. Put some bone meal in the soil around the roots
but no strong fertilizer. Some soils need lime. Tamp the soil about the
roots with all your might. It cannot be made too firm.
Then water them all summer, or until August if they have made a good
growth. Give them all they can drink once a week. Sink a large bar about
a foot from the tree and pour the water into the hole, as much as the
soil will take.
Keep up cultivation and a dust mulch or, if you cannot do this, mulch
with something else. Mulching doesn't mean a wisp of hay but something
thick or impervious. Six inches of strawy manure, grass, vines or weeds;
an old carpet, burlap, feed or fertilizer bags or even newspapers, held
down with stones or weeds or earth, all make good mulches.
These trees ought to grow and, whether you ever succeed in grafting your
seedlings or not, you should have at least a small orchard of fine nut
trees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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