His passion for boating was fostered at this time by having among our
friends several sailors. His favourite companion, Edward Ellerker
Williams, of the 8th Light Dragoons, had begun his life in the navy, and
had afterwards entered the army; he had spent several years in India,
and his love for adventure and manly exercises accorded with Shelley's
taste. It was their favourite plan to build a boat such as they could
manage themselves, and, living on the sea-coast, to enjoy at every hour
and season the pleasure they loved best. Captain Roberts, R.N.,
undertook to build the boat at Genoa, where he was also occupied in
building the "Bolivar" for Lord Byron. Ours was to be an open boat, on a
model taken from one of the royal dockyards. I have since heard that
there was a defect in this model, and that it was never seaworthy. In
the month of February, Shelley and his friend went to Spezia to seek for
houses for us. Only one was to be found at all suitable; however, a
trifle such as not finding a house could not stop Shelley; the one found
was to serve for all. It was unfurnished; we sent our furniture by sea,
and with a good deal of precipitation, arising from his impatience, made
our removal. We left Pisa on the 26th of April.
The Bay of Spezia is of considerable extent, and divided by a rocky
promontory into a larger and smaller one. The town of Lerici is situated
on the eastern point, and in the depth of the smaller bay, which bears
the name of this town, is the village of San Terenzo. Our house, Casa
Magni, was close to this village; the sea came up to the door, a steep
hill sheltered it behind. The proprietor of the estate on which it was
situated was insane; he had begun to erect a large house at the summit
of the hill behind, but his malady prevented its being finished, and it
was falling into ruin. He had (and this to the Italians had seemed a
glaring symptom of very decided madness) rooted up the olives on the
hillside, and planted forest trees. These were mostly young, but the
plantation was more in English taste than I ever elsewhere saw in Italy;
some fine walnut and ilex trees intermingled their dark massy foliage,
and formed groups which still haunt my memory, as then they satiated the
eye with a sense of loveliness. The scene was indeed of unimaginable
beauty. The blue extent of waters, the almost landlocked bay, the near
castle of Lerici shutting it in to the east, and distant Porto Venere to
the west; the varied forms of the precipitous rocks that bound in the
beach, over which there was only a winding rugged footpath towards
Lerici, and none on the other side; the tideless sea leaving no sands
nor shingle, formed a picture such as one sees in Salvator Rosa's
landscapes only. Sometimes the sunshine vanished when the sirocco
raged--the 'ponente' the wind was called on that shore. The gales and
squalls that hailed our first arrival surrounded the bay with foam; the
howling wind swept round our exposed house, and the sea roared
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