He now took the lead in the restoration of St. Paul's. It must be
acknowledged that after the first outburst of zeal following the
fire of 1561, St. Paul's was much neglected for many long years. The
authorities were lukewarm, the services were dead and unattractive,
and all manner of irreverence was seen there daily. Bishop Earle's
_Microcosmography_ (1628) often gets quoted, but his description
of "Paule's Walke" ought to find place here. I take it from a
contemporary MS. copy. Paul's Walk was the whole nave of the
cathedral:--"Paule's Walke is the lande's epitomy, or you may call it,
the lesser Ile [Aisle] of Greate Brittayne. It is more than this,
the whole woorlde's map, which you may here discerne in its perfect
motion, justling and turning. It is an heape of stones and men, with
a vast confusion of languages, and were the steeple not sanctified,
nothing liker Babell. The noyse of it is like that of bees, an humming
buzze mixed with walking tongues, and feet. It is a kind of still
rore, or loude whisper. It is the greate exchange of all discourse,
and noe business whatsoever but it is here stirring and on foote. It
is the Synode of all pates politicke, jointed and layed together
in most serious postures; and they are not halfe soe busy at the
Parliament. It is the anticke of tayles to tayles, and backes to
backes, and for vizzards you neede goe noe further than faces. Tis
the market of young lecturers, which you may cheapen at all rates and
sizes. It is the generall mint of famous lyes, which are here (like
the legendes of Popery) first coyned, and stamped in the church. All
inventions are emptied here, and not few pockettes. The best signe of
a temple in it, is that it is the thieves' sanctuary, whoe rob here
more safely in a crowde than in a wildernesse, whilst every searcher
is a bush to hide them in. It is the other expence of a day after
playes and the taverne ... and men have still some othes left to
swear here.... The visitants are all men without exception, but the
principall inhabitants are stale knights and captains out of servis,
men with long rapiers and breeches, who after all turne merchant here,
and trafficke for news. Some make it a preface to dinner and travell
for a stomache, but thriftier men make it their ordinary, and boarde
here very cheape. Of all such places it is least troubled with
hobgoblins, for if a ghost would walk here he could not." Of "the
singing men" he draws a most unfavourable picture, accuses them of
drunkenness and shameful looseness of life; says that they are
earnest in evil deeds and that their work in the cathedral is their
recreation. Bishop Pilkington also speaks of the profanity and
worldliness of the daily frequenters. The carrying merchandise into
the building seems to have been the custom in many of the cathedrals,
and so it is not wonderful that the building went to ruin. The Bishop
of London, Laud, sent round exhortations to the City Companies to
contribute to the restoration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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