Where these people get their cooks, I never could make out! It is easy
enough to understand that fish and soup, your sirloin and your woodcock,
could be well and carefully dressed, but who devised that exquisite
little _entrée_, what genius presided over that dish of macaroni, that
omelette, or that soufflé? Whence, besides, came the infinite taste of
the whole meal, with its few dishes, served in an order of artistic
elegance? And that butler, too,--how quiet, how observant, how noiseless
his ministration; how steady his decanter hand! Where did they find
_him?_ And that pale sherry, and that Chablis, and that exquisite cup of
Mocha? Don't tell me that you or I can have them all as good,--that you
know his wine-merchant, and have the receipt for his coffee. You might
as well tell me you could sing like Mario because you employ his
hairdresser. No, no; they who accomplish these things are peculiar
organizations. They have great gifts of order and system, the nicest
perceptions of taste, considerable refinement, and no small share of
sensuality. They possess a number of high qualities in miniature, and
are, so to say, “great men seen through the wrong end of a telescope.”
Of this the Rev. Dr. Millar was a pleasing specimen. With that
consciousness of having done everything possible for your comfort which
makes a good host, he had a racy gratification in quietly watching your
enjoyment. Easily and unobtrusively marking your taste for this or
preference for that, he would contrive that your liking should be
gratified, as though by mere accident, and never let you know yourself a
debtor for the attentions bestowed upon you. It was his pride to have a
perfect establishment: would that all vanity were as harmless and as
pleasurable to others! And now to the dinner, which, in our digression,
we are forgetting.
“Try these cutlets, doctor,” interposed the host. “It is a receipt I
brought back with me from Provence; I think you 'll find them good.”
“An over-rich, greasy sort of cuisine is the Provençale,” remarked
Ogden.
“And yet almost every good cook of France comes from that country,” said
Layton.
Ogden raised his large double eye-glass to look at the man who thus
dared to “cap” a remark of his.
“I wish we could get out of the bastard French cookery all the clubs
give us nowadays,” said the Colonel. “You neither see a good English
joint nor a well-dressed entrée.”
“An emblem of the alliance,” said Layton, “where each nation spoils
something of its own in the effort to be more palatable to its
neighbor.”
“Apparently, then, Sir, the great statesmen who promoted this policy are
not fortunate enough to enjoy your sanction?” said Ogden, with an
insolent air.
“My sanction is scarcely the word for it. They have not, certainly, my
approval.”
“I hope you like French wines, though, doctor,” said the host, eager to
draw the conversation into some easier channel. “Taste that Sauterne.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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