Our Western Hills: How to reach them; And the Views from their Summits: By a Glasgow PedestrianAnonymous
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Our Western Hills: How to reach them; And the Views from their Summits: By a Glasgow Pedestrian
Anonymous
Hiking -- Scotland; Scotland -- Description and travel
It is not often that we have a sheet of water on or near the summit
of our Scottish hills; but this is something that Ben Ledi can boast
of. On its shoulder, a little way below us, there is a small and dark
tarn, only a few yards in width, which yet was made the unwilling
witness, nay, worse, participator in a terrible tragedy. The tarn is
called Loch-an-nan-corp—“the small lake of dead bodies,” a name the
origin of which tradition ascribes to the calamity which “once upon a
time,” not to be too particular, overtook a funeral procession there.
Two hundred persons journeying from Glenfinlas to a churchyard on
the pass of Leny, found this lake frozen over and covered with snow,
and attempted to cross it, but the ice gave way and they were all
drowned. An interesting writer in the _Illustrated News_, a year or two
back, a writer who, we are pleased to hear, belongs to Glasgow, says,
writing on this point, “No tablet on that wind-swept moor records the
half-forgotten disaster; only the eerie lapping of the lochlet’s waves
fill the discoverer with strange forebodings, and at dusk, it is said,
the lonely ptarmigan may be seen, like souls of the departed, haunting
the fatal spot.”
Those who, instead of retracing their steps, and coming down again by
Coilantogle, prefer to make for the Pass of Leny, will find at the foot
of the mountain a little mound, close to where the river leaves Loch
Lubnaig, the burying-ground to which the clansmen were carrying their
dead friend. There is now only a low scone wall around this diminutive
grave-yard, but here once stood the small chapel of St. Bride, “which,”
according to Sir Walter Scott, “stood in a small and romantic knoll in
the middle of the valley,” from the Gothic arch of whose doorway, we
read in the _Lady of the Lake_, the happy marriage company were coming
out when Roderick Dhu’s messenger rushed up to the principal one of
the party and thrust into his hands the fiery cross of the Macgregors.
After rounding this knoll we arrive, about a mile farther on, within
sight of Loch Lubnaig, or the “Crooked Lake,” which is some 5 miles
in length, overhung on both sides by rugged hills, and surrounded by
groves of birch, pine, and hazel. We do not know a better position
than the farmhouse of Ardchullary for getting a good view of the loch.
Unless you have provided yourself with a very liberal allowance of the
biscuits and cheese to which we have already referred, you will be
glad to get near to some such kindly and hospitable place. And if you
are a little tired and done up with your day’s travels, additional
interest will attach, in your eyes, to this house, from its having been
the favourite summer quarters of Bruce of Kinnaird, the Abyssinian
traveller, who retired to these solitudes for the purpose of arranging
the materials for the publication of his travels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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