Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 2)Trollope, Frances Milton
History
Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 2)
Trollope, Frances Milton
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The capricious fury of the sovereign people during this reign of
confusion, if not of terror, has left vestiges in almost every part of
the building. The very interesting bas relief which I remember on the
pedestal of the fine statue of Malesherbes, the intrepid defender of
Louis Seize, has been torn away; and the _brute_ masonry which it has
left displayed, is as striking and appropriate a memento of the
spoilers, as the graphic group they displaced was of the scene it
represented. M. J*** told me the sculpture was not destroyed,
and would probably be replaced. I heartily hope, for the honour of
Frenchmen, that this may happen: but if it should not, I trust that,
for the sake of historic effect, the statue and its mutilated
pedestal will remain as they are--both the one and the other mark an
epoch in the history of France.
But it was in the obscurer parts of the building that I found the most
interest. In order to take a short cut to some point to which our kind
guide wished to lead us, we were twisted through one of the old--the
very old towers of this venerable structure. It had been, I think they
said, the kitchen of St. Louis himself; and the walls, as seen by the
enormous thickness pierced for the windows, are substantial enough to
endure another six hundred years at least.
In one of the numerous rooms which we entered, we saw an extremely
curious old picture, seized in the time of Louis Quinze from the
Jesuits, as containing proof of their treasonable disrespect for
kings: and certainly there is not wanting evidence of the fact; very
speaking portraits of Henry the Third and Henry the Fourth are to be
found most unequivocally on their way to the infernal regions. The
whole performance is one of the most interesting specimens of
Jesuitical ingenuity extant.
Having fully indulged our curiosity in the palace, we proceeded to the
chapel. It is exquisitely beautiful, and so perfect in its delicate
proportions, that the eye is satisfied, and dwells with full
contentment on the whole for many minutes before the judgment is at
leisure to examine and criticise the different parts of it. But even
when this first effect is over, the perfect elegance of this
diminutive structure still rests upon the mind, producing a degree of
admiration which seems disproportioned to its tiny dimensions.
It was built for a shrine in which to preserve relics; and Pierre de
Montreuil, its able architect, appears to have sought rather to render
it worthy by its richness and its grace to become the casket for those
holy treasures, than to give it the dignity of a church. That
beautiful miniature cathedral, St. George's Chapel at Windsor, is an
enormous edifice compared to this; but less light, less lofty in its
proportions--in short, less enchanting in its general effect, than the
lovely bijou of St. Louis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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