The day I dined with her, one of these travelled gentlemen was led up and presented to me as a person well acquainted with my country. His name was placed on the cover next to the one destined for me at table, and it was evidently intended that we should derive our principal amusement from the conversation of each other. As I never saw him before or since, as I never expect to see him again, and as I do not even remember his name, I think I am guilty of no breach of confidence by repeating to you a few of the ideas upon England which he had acquired on his travels. His first remark after we were placed at table was,--"You do not, I think, use table-napkins in England;--do you not find them rather embarrassing?" The next was,--"I observed during my stay in England that it is not the custom to eat soup: I hope, however, that you do not find it disagreeable to your palate?"... "You have, I think, no national cuisine?" was the third observation; and upon this _singularity in our manners_ he was eloquent. "Yet, after all," said he consolingly, "France is in fact the only country which has one: Spain is too oily--Italy too spicy. We have sent artists into Germany; but this cannot be said to constitute _une cuisine nationale_. Pour dire vrai, however, the rosbif of England is hardly more scientific than the sun-dried meat of the Tartars. A Frenchman would be starved in England did he not light upon one of the imported artists,--and, happily for travellers, this is no longer difficult." "Did you dine much in private society?" said I. "No, I did not: my time was too constantly occupied to permit my doing so." "We have some very good hotels, however, in London." "But no tables d'hôte!" he replied with a shrug. "I did very well, nevertheless; for I never permitted myself to venture anywhere for the purpose of dining excepting to your celebrated Leicester-square. It is the most fashionable part of London, I believe; or, at least, the only fashionable restaurans are to be found there." I ventured very gently to hint that there were other parts of London more à-la-mode, and many hotels which had the reputation of a better cuisine than any which could be found in Leicester-square; but the observation appeared to displease the traveller, and the belle harmonie which it was intended should subsist between us was evidently shaken thereby, for I heard him say in a half-whisper to the person who sat on the other side of him, and who had been attentively listening to our discourse,--"Pas exact...." LETTER LIV. Mixed Society.--Influence of the English Clergy and their Families.--Importance of their station in Society.