Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
Those very few well-tempered spirits that have outgrown every obstacle to
their full mental developement, have that inborn thirst after knowledge
which even knowledge itself cannot quench; for, the more they learn, the
more they aspire to know; and these men, with little external incitement
to forward or nurture their literary tastes and pursuits, are like those
plants on arid land, which only require a few fleeting showers to quicken
their energies, develope their form, and unfold their beauty. Such choice
persons are the delight of their friends, and worthy of that better state
of society for which they daily sigh, as they see the best laws and
institutions of their country trampled upon by military despots, whose
nod they must obey, while they say in their hearts, “Vetitum est sceleri
nihil!”
On the 24th of June, (Dia de San Juan,) all Lima annually assemble along
the windings of the “Great Alamada,” and between orangeries now prettily
laden with fruit, to the romantic mountain recess of “Amencaes,” only
about one mile from town, and beautifully adapted for pleasure-grounds,
if only supplied with water, which it might have at some expense. This
spot commands a fine view of the capital, with its towering spires; of
wide fields, innumerable orchards, the Rimac, and the fine lagoon at its
mouth; the island of San Lorenzo, and the shipping at Callao; and it has,
in its back-ground, a set-off in the acclivities newly clothed with vivid
vegetation, among numerous crags and many a ridge and chasm. Here, on the
day of San Juan,—a day of festivity and joy,—men, women, and children,
of all ranks, all ages, and all colours and occupations, meet. Mirth is
the object of one and all. Their horses, their asses, and even their own
persons, are adorned in their best manner; and the rational as well as
the irrational members of the ever-moving crowd are bedecked with the
flower of Amencaes taken from the favourite clefts and nooks of these
hills. In this place there are tents and sheds, that supply seats and
refreshment for those who love the thoughtless and bawling mirth of the
“jarrana.” There is at this exhibition a dunning confusion of musical
discord kept up by drumming, piping, shouting, harping, and guitaring,
singing, laughing, and dancing; but no fighting. Here too we may see the
popular “paseo,” or promenade, of the “_chuchumecas_,” (women of immoral
character,) who mingle freely and good-humouredly with the crowd, to the
infinite amusement of the multitude. The national taste is on this, as
on other occasions of festivity, eminently displayed by the loud and
simultaneous laugh, or “_carcajada_,” of cheering voluptuaries when the
samaqueca—a favourite dance—is exhibited in a free and masterly style.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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