Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That CountrySmith, Archibald
History
Peru as It Is, Volume 1 (of 2): A Residence in Lima, and Other Parts of the Peruvian Republic, Comprising an Account of the Social and Physical Features of That Country
Smith, Archibald
Peru -- Description and travel
We may mention, that the first English gentleman’s remains we were called
upon to accompany to an unhallowed burying-place, were those of one who
died in an inland city remarkable for the hospitality and kindness of its
inhabitants; and, after answering a few questions regarding the religious
creed of the deceased, the price of the interment was settled, we think,
at fifty dollars, and then the good-natured bishop, with a degree of
liberality seldom exercised towards dissenters from the Romish ritual in
Catholic countries, yielded his sanction to let the corpse have Christian
burial. But, subsequently to this permission, a mob was collected in the
night, and the body was cast out from the church to the middle of the
street, where our obliging friend Don Mariano Sanches told us it lay. On
the following morning, in a city where humanity was subdued by the ugly
suggestions of superstition, there were only two good Samaritans. These
gave their attendance at the stranger’s funeral, when the only two or
three Britons at that time in the place accompanied the body outside
the city, to find it a grave under the shelter of an orangery, where its
mouldering bones could not by any chance come into contact with those of
the pious agitators, who would fain persuade themselves that, while they
live in harmony with the living heretic, the mere sight of the worm that
nibbles at his interred remains is quite sufficient to endanger their own
eternal condition.
In the capital of the republic a better example is at length given.
Through the meritorious exertions of the British Consul-general, B. H.
Wilson, Esq. the Peruvian government have ceded to the English a proper
piece of cemetery-ground[12] at Bella Vista, an agreeable and convenient
situation between Lima and the port of Callao. Formerly all the English,
not Roman Catholics, who died in the capital or port, were interred in
the barren island of San Lorenzo, where the bodies were exposed to the
insults of the most vile of mankind,—miscreant convicts confined to the
island for crimes that expel them from the society of honest men, and who
believe that the English heretic, like the ancient Peruvian pagan, must
needs have laid with him in the grave instruments or utensils of his
avocation while living; and, therefore, they are led to expect that, our
English merchant’s grave must be a place of deposit for a full share of
those dollars he was seen always to handle, and to ship away in boxes to
his native land. These outcasts were made to feel their own superiority,
if not while in chains or in the galley, at least prospectively in their
own cypress-shaded Pantheon, over the wealthiest, worthiest, and most
respectable foreigners in their land, who, at the close of life, they
might believe, exchanged situations with themselves,—that is, were sent
in perpetuity to the arid and leafless San Lorenzo, while they themselves
would be conveyed and suffered to rest in honoured ground until the
last day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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