On the other side is another bath, known as “Lord Essex’s” plunge-bath,
which has its interest also. It is elegantly designed, with rather
original little steps for descending into the water. The bath is of a
sort of buff-coloured marble, and is known to have been made, and
perhaps used, by the Earl of Essex some three centuries ago. Our
cicerone goes so far as to affirm that the Good Queen Bess was fond of
taking an occasional “dip” here, and rather illogically points to a sort
of darkened window or passage in proof of his assertion. But without
introducing this august lady at all, or the Earl, the bath is
sufficiently old and interesting to stand, if we may use the metaphor,
on its own bottom. Holywell Street, close by, is evidence of the
traditions of a holy source in the neighbourhood, and Essex Street is
not far away. But how many who pass through the Strand daily for years
have ever been to see the Old Roman Bath?
“Within memory of man,” says Mr. Roach Smith, “huge masses, with trees
growing upon them, were to be seen at London Wall opposite to what is
now Finsbury Circus. They were probably--like what may still be seen
opposite Sion College, and in various places with warehouses, in obscure
courts and in cellars, near Cripplegate--the core of the Roman wall
denuded of the facing stones. In 1852 was discovered a portion which the
Corporation had given to the Church Building Society to be pulled down,
but it was happily saved; it had been preserved so long owing to a
buttress built against it in the Middle Ages. But though saved, owing to
earnest representations, it was built into a stable.”
There are indeed scarcely any of the associations of London more
impressive or overpowering than its connection with the Roman Empire.
There is of course the common vague and popular idea of “Roman remains”
found all over England, and the “local museum” can generally boast some
well-grimed vessels of various shapes, which are labelled “Roman.” There
is often, too, the “incised” slab on which may be deciphered some
“Roman” lettering, as ambiguous as that discovered by Mr. Pickwick.
Nothing, however, is so astonishing to the casual spectator as the
abundance and splendour of the real Roman remains found in London. The
Guildhall Museum, where they are stored in quantities, might be a
portion of the Vatican Museum. The Roman glass and pottery alone would
fill a warehouse, and their variety and beautiful shapes and materials
are perfectly astonishing. We say nothing of the tablets and statues,
etc., and fragments of brickwork found about Blackfriars, but what
really recalls the Roman domination in the most forcible and practical
way is the superb Roman pavement, about 14 feet long, with its round
end, which must have covered a goodly sized vestibule. The
[Illustration:
The
Old
Roman
Bath, Strand.
Hume Nisbet
]
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