Hot coffee and cocoa cans are at every corner,
their shining brass presided over by men chiefly. Here, as throughout
East London, sellers of every sort of eatable and drinkable thing wander
up and down.
Paris is credited with living most of its life under all men's eyes, and
London certainly may share this reputation as far as eating goes. In
fact, working London, taking the poorest class both in pay and rank, has
small space at home for much cookery, and finds more satisfaction in the
flavor of food prepared outside. The throats, tanned and parched by much
beer, are sensitive only to something with the most distinct and
defined taste of its own; and so it is that whelks and winkles and
mussels and all forms of fish and flesh, that are to the American
uneatably strong and unpleasant, make the luxuries of the English poor.
They are conservative, also, like all the poor, and prefer old
acquaintances to new; and the costers and sellers of all sorts realize
this, and seldom go beyond an established list.
It is always "somethin' 'ot" that the workman craves; and small wonder,
when one has once tested London climate, and found that, nine months out
of twelve, fog and mist creep chill into bones and marrow, and that a
fire is comfortable even in July. November accents this fact sharply,
and by November the pea-soup and eel-soup men are at their posts, and
about market and dock, and in lane and alley, the trade is brisk. Near
Petticoat Lane, one of the oddest of London's odd corners, small
newsboys rush up and take a cupful as critically as I have seen them
take waffles from the old women purveyors of these delicacies about City
Hall Park and Park Row, while hungry costers and workmen appear to find
it the most satisfactory of meals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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