So strong is the barrier which these sea-borne sands oppose to the
river-borne ooze, that as soon as a seabank is built—as the projectors of
the ‘Victoria County’ have built them—across any part of the estuary, the
mud caught by it soon ‘warps’ the space within into firm and rich dry
land. But that same barrier, ere the fen was drained, backed up for ages
not only the silt, but the very water of the fens; and spread it inland
into a labyrinth of shifting streams, shallow meres, and vast peat bogs,
on those impervious clays which floor the fen. Each river contributed to
the formation of those bogs and meres, instead of draining them away;
repeating on a huge scale the process which may be seen in many a
highland strath, where the ground at the edge of the stream is firm and
high; the meadows near the hillfoot, a few hundred yards away, bogland
lower than the bank of the stream. For each flood deposits its silt upon
the immediate bank of the river, raising it year by year; till—as in the
case of the ‘Levée’ of the Mississippi, and probably of every one of the
old fen rivers—the stream runs at last between two natural dykes, at a
level considerably higher than that of the now swamped and undrainable
lands right and left of it.
If we add to this, a slope in the fen rivers so extraordinarily slight,
that the river at Cambridge is only thirteen and a half feet above the
mean sea level, five-and-thirty miles away, and that if the great
sea-sluice of Denver, the key of all the eastern fen, were washed away,
the tide would back up the Cam to within ten miles of Cambridge; if we
add again the rainfall upon that vast flat area, utterly unable to escape
through rivers which have enough to do to drain the hills around; it is
easy to understand how peat, the certain product of standing water, has
slowly overwhelmed the rich alluvium, fattened by the washing of those
phosphatic greensand beds, which (discovered by the science of the
lamented Professor Henslow) are now yielding round Cambridge supplies of
manure seemingly inexhaustible. Easy it is to understand how the
all-devouring, yet all-preserving peat-moss swallowed up gradually the
stately forests of fir and oak, ash and poplar, hazel and yew, which once
grew on that rank land; how trees, torn down by flood or storm, floated
and lodged in rafts, damming the waters back still more; how streams,
bewildered in the flats, changed their channels, mingling silt and sand
with the peat-moss; how Nature, left to herself, ran into wild riot and
chaos more and more; till the whole fen became one ‘Dismal Swamp,’ in
which the ‘Last of the English’ (like Dred in Mrs. Stowe’s tale) took
refuge from their tyrants, and lived, like him, a free and joyous life
awhile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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