Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
At three o’clock, after the heat of the day, we again started upon our
route; and at six, rode up to the Casa-real of Calcachen, where we
stopped during the night. The best room in the house was placed at our
disposal. The corners of the apartment proved that it had been swept;
for the collections of months still remained there, a _standing_
evidence of the fact.
The Casa-real, according to universal custom, fronts upon a public
square; where great preparations were at this time making to celebrate
some one of the religious festivals on the following Monday. An
amphitheatre was erected, formed of poles, having a row of seats
overlooking the arena, where bull-fights were to take place. In the
evening, in anticipation of the festival, guns were discharged, and a
display of fireworks took place from the roof of the church. The
Indians, on these occasions, like our juvenile patriots previous to the
fourth of July, usually anticipate the sport of the festal day some
forty-eight hours or more before it arrives.
Next morning (Sunday) I was awakened before daylight by the noise of the
natives, who, as usual, could not restrain their impatience for the
arrival of their day of rejoicing. Wooden drums and horns were brought
in requisition; and, at _sun-rise_, rockets were being discharged from
the church. The bells were rung, the crowd entered the building, and
quiet was restored.
Preparatory to cleansing our guns, previous to our departure from this
town, they were discharged. This was understood by the Indians to be a
complimentary salute to their saint, and they crowded around me, to my
great annoyance, insisting that I should remain with them until the end
of the feast. Flattering as was this invitation, which, at one time, I
thought I should be compelled to accept, I succeeded in declining
without giving offence. Bidding them adieu, we saddled our horses, and
were once more upon the road. After passing through two small Indian
towns of little notoriety, we arrived at Isamal at noon.
The road continued to be good; and four miles distant, the church could
be seen, throwing the shadows of its massive walls over the surrounding
objects.
On arriving at the Casa-real, it was found to be deplorably filthy and
uncomfortable; to which I was in no condition of mind or body to submit.
I went in quest of the Colonel of the town, whom I found to be a quondam
friend, and an old housemate at Doña Michaelé’s, in Merida, and that he
had been recently appointed to this station. From the natural politeness
of this gentleman, I was guarantied a kind reception, and such good
quarters were provided as to make me feel quite at home; as all will be
prepared to believe, when they know of the accommodations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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