Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
We were the sole proprietors of a lordly mansion, with a retinue of
Indians to attend our bidding. The structure which we inhabited occupies
one side of a large square, and is raised upon strong and well-built
arches of about twelve feet, supporting the long ranges of halls, rooms,
and pillared corridors, of easy access by steps leading off at different
sections. The whole was quite imposing in its appearance, and not the
less attractive for having been recently cleansed and whitewashed. This
building was used for public offices in Isamal’s better days. I occupied
the south-eastern angle of the mansion, looking out upon the square and
market-place. The scene without, however, was not very fascinating. A
few Indian women only were to be observed, selling or carrying meats and
vegetables; and mules browsing over the grounds.
Sunday evening was being observed here by a long procession from one of
the churches, composed of priests, and upwards of four hundred Indian
girls, clad in plain white cotton dresses, each carrying a lighted
candle. It was a beautiful and even an imposing sight. In this
procession was carried a figure of the Virgin, surrounded by all the
symbols of the church, upon a stage preceded by music, and heralded with
occasional displays of fire-works.
In the morning, at an early hour, I visited the suburbs of the town,
where I observed a number of mounds, the highest of which I judged to be
from fifty to sixty feet, and which I ascended. The sides were very
precipitous, and covered with loose stones. I was compelled to pull
myself up by the aid of the bushes that overgrew the surface.
Before reaching the summit, and about two-thirds of the way from the
base, is a square platform of about two acres in extent, in the centre
of which is a well, partially filled in with stones, and more or less
overgrown with vegetation. This dilapidation and decay had evidently
been the work of centuries.
From the top of this mound there was a fine prospect. The view of the
town, with its elevated church, and the flat-roofed, Moorish-looking
houses, with the trees of the tropics interspersed, and the tall cocoa,
varying the surface of the extended country in the distance, presented a
rural scene rarely to be met with in this country.
The plane surface of the land around these elevations, precludes the
supposition that they are natural formations. Their origin and purpose
can only be surmised. Probably they were fortifications—perhaps look-out
places:—
“An observatory, from whence to overlook
The surrounding world at one broad glance,
And view their wily foes.”
Be this as it may, I felt awed when I looked upon them. I could not but
feel that they established a sort of parenthetic connexion between
myself and elder ages, and a strange people who had customs now unknown,
and of whom history has preserved no better memorials than the
indistinct yet eloquent piles of stone and earth before me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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