Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
Half-Moorish, half-Spanish, and with a very little Provençal blood, the
Catalans kept their distinct characteristics, while the other settlers
of Marseilles developed into the type well known and recognized to-day
as the Marseillais.
Their looks, manners, and customs, their houses and their clothes were
faithful--and are still, to no small extent--to the early traditions of
the race, and, by intermarrying, the type was kept comparatively pure,
so that in this twentieth century the Catalan women of Marseilles are as
distinct a species of beautiful women as the Niçoise or the Arlesienne,
both types distinct from their French sisters, and each of great repute
among the world’s beautiful women.
Dumas was not very explicit with regard to the geography of this Catalan
quarter of Marseilles, though his references to it were numerous in that
most famous of all his romances, “Monte Cristo.”
At the time of which Dumas wrote (1815) its topographical aspect had
probably changed but little from what it had been for a matter of three
or four centuries, and the sea-birds then, even as now, hovered about
the jutting promontory and winged their way backwards and forwards
across the mouth of the old harbour, where the ugly but useful Pont
Transbordeur now stretches its five hundred metres of wire ropes.
Around the Anse and the Pointe des Catalans were--and are still--grouped
the habitations of the Catalan fisher and sailor folk. One sees to-day,
among the men and women alike, the same distinction of type which Dumas
took for his ideal, and one has only to climb any of the narrow
stairlike streets which wind up from the sea-level to see the
counterpart of Dantes’s Mercédès sitting or standing by some open
doorway.
For a detailed, but not too lengthy, description of the manners and
customs of the Catalans of Marseilles, one can not do better than turn
to the pages of Dumas and read for himself what the great romancer wrote
of the lovely Mercédès and her kind.
There are at least a half-dozen chapters of “Monte Cristo” which, if
re-read, would form a very interesting commentary on the Marseilles of
other days.
The opening lines of Dumas’s romance gives the key-note of old
Marseilles: “On the 28th of February, 1815, the watch-tower of Notre
Dame de la Garde signalled the ‘_trois-mâts_’ _Pharaon_, from Smyrna,
Triest, and Naples.”
The functions of Notre Dame de la Garde have changed somewhat since that
time, but it is still the dominant note and beacon by land and sea, from
which sailors and landsmen alike take their bearings, and it is the best
of starting-points for one who would review the past history of this
most cosmopolitan of all European cities.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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