SAUCES. "Hunger is the best Sauce." "England" has been slightingly defined by a French gourmand as a country of fifty religions and only one sauce! If this be true of those who have all the resources of the animal kingdom at their disposal, what can be the plight of those from whom these are shut out. This "one sauce" was, I believe, melted butter, or as it is more generally now called White Sauce, and it is not every one who can make even that plain sauce as it should be. The thin, watery mixture, or grey "stodgy" mass which is sometimes served with cauliflower or parsnips, even where the other viands are fairly well cooked and served, is certainly enough to condemn "vegetables." Yet, how simple it is if done the right way. In a small saucepan--preferably earthenware or enamel, for it must be spotlessly clean and smooth--melt 1 oz. butter, and into that stir 1 oz. flour. When quite smooth add by degrees a teacupful milk. Stir till it thickens, and allow to cook for a minute or two longer. It must be done over a very gentle heat--the side of the range, or gas stove turned low. If wanted more creamy, use more butter in proportion to the flour. Salt and pepper to taste. To make Parsley Sauce, add a spoonful of finely chopped and scalded parsley to this just as it comes a boil; and for Caper Sauce, add some finely chopped capers or fresh nasturtium pods in same way. Tarragon Sauce. Add 20 to 30 drops Tarragon vinegar to prepared white sauce. Stir well. Dutch Sauce. To a creamy white sauce made with 2 ozs. butter to 1 oz. flour, add one, two, or three yolks of eggs according to richness desired. Beat up a little, add a very little cold milk to prevent curdling. Stir into sauce when off the fire. Allow to come just to boiling point again--this should be done in double saucepan or boiler--and add a little lemon juice. Dutch Sauce (2). Take the yolks of 2 eggs, beat lightly, and add to them a teaspoonful cold water. Whisk in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful lemon juice, same of cream, and a little pepper and salt. Stir over slow heat till it thickens. Egg Sauce. Prepare white sauce as above, and when ready add one or two hard-boiled eggs, very finely minced. The sauce may be made with white stock instead of milk. A pinch cayenne and other seasoning may be added. Celery Sauce. Make a sauce with the water or stock in which a head of celery has been boiled. Pulp part of the finest of celery through a sieve and add. Horse Radish Sauce. To quantity required of white sauce, add one or two tablespoonfuls finely scraped horse radish, and the juice of a lemon or a little vinegar. Mustard Sauce. Add teaspoonful or more made mustard to each 1/4 pint white sauce. Onion Sauce. Boil 1/2 lb. or 3/4 lb. Spanish onions in milk and water till tender. Drain and make sauce with the liquor. Rub the onion through sieve and add. Brown Sauce.