Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
‘The detached boulder may be identified with certainty by noticing
that it is imbedded in the Rake’s Progress close to the top of a
funnel-shaped grassy gully about ten or twelve yards from Mickledore.
None but experienced climbers should attempt the North Climb from the
Mickledore.’
SCAWFELL CHIMNEY.--A year after our first sorry attempt on Broad
Stand Dr. S. and I were being shown the merits of Cust’s gully on Great
End as a school for step-cutting, by an enthusiastic wielder of the
ice-axe, Mr. C. G. Monro. Neither of us knew much about the subject,
but it was pleasant to be well instructed, and on reaching the summit
of Great End we wondered where we could cut steps next. Monro suggested
an adjournment for lunch at Mickledore and a subsequent passage up the
doubtless snow-filled chimney: to which we all agreed.
On reaching the chimney, Monro took the lead and hopefully ploughed
through heavy wet snow as a preliminary. Unfortunately, the snow became
softer and deeper as we advanced, until at last we were up to our
waists in slush, and wet through. The pitch was not very far to seek.
We saw long dripping icicles barring our direct route onwards. Both
sides of the gully were heavily glazed with wet ice, and we foresaw
an anxious time of waiting while the leader prospected. At the time
we were not aware that the usual exit was upon the right-hand side of
the pitch, by a couple of easy broad ledges. Nor could we see that the
pitch was in two parts, cave upon cave, with a large resting-place
between; for the icicles hung in an impenetrable curtain. Monro
attacked the icicles valiantly. Twice he succeeded in working half
way up between the centre and left wall, but twice he was repulsed
vigorously, and found himself landed in the snow below. I was getting
cold and impatient. Monro was willing to take a breathing space. I
unroped and made for the left wall. Cutting little steps for hands and
feet in the ice that covered the wall, and using the fingers for all
they were worth, in some ungainly fashion I reached the level of the
top of the pitch and traversed on to the snow above. The axe had been
used, I suspect, more like a croquet mallet than anything else, and
introduced its own particular dangers. But it was of no consequence,
the pitch was climbed, and the shivering pair below tried to fling up
the rope to me. This was a matter of much difficulty, placed as we
were, but by approaching each other as far as we dared, a happy fling
brought the end of the rope to my hand, and I responded by throwing
down, to their extreme peril, the ice-axe that they needed to effect
their ascent. We managed the rest badly. My position was insecure in
the upper snow of the gully, or at any rate it seemed to be so. The
others were benumbed with cold and wet, unable to feel the holds or to
rely on getting any help from me. We certainly were not a strong party,
and there was no possibility of mutual aid. The only consolation was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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