Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
in the fact that all danger was absent; a fall could only result in a
plunge into ten feet of soft snow, but we never afterwards spoke with
pride of that afternoon’s work. The other two decided to give it up,
and go down to Mickledore again. My own feelings were not consulted,
but what matter? The Broad Stand was somewhere about. I might descend
that way and shout when in trouble. We joined again at Mickledore, and
rather gloomily glissaded to Hollow Stones.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE PENRITH CLIMB FROM MICKLEDORE]
That evening at Wastdale we hunted out Williamson’s reference to the
Scawfell Chimney. ‘It is impossible to get straight up the chimney,
as the way is blocked by an overhanging slab, and escape must be
effected either by the right-hand wall near the top, where handhold is
miserably inadequate, or by the “corner,” forty feet up the chimney.
The passage of the corner is a matter of stride and balance, as there
is no positive hold for the hands. There is a bad drop into the chimney
behind, and a slip in rounding the corner would end in broken limbs, if
not a battered skull. A man essaying the corner must apply himself like
a plaister to an unpleasantly projecting rock, and then by shifting the
weight from one foot to the other (for the legs are stretched widely
apart) he can creep round.’
The chimney has not often been climbed by that variation of mine since
then. In dry weather it is perfectly safe to ascend or descend direct
by the pitch. In the ascent both sides of the gully may be used at
first; then comes an awkward crawl over the first jammed boulder, into
the secondary cave. Then, taking care of a few loose stones, another
jammed boulder forming the roof is overcome--it is only a few feet
high--and a passage out on the right is made possible. A long stretch
of scree next fills the bed of the gully, the right wall of which is
here broken away almost entirely, so that the climber generally makes
an exit, and passes straight up to the Deep Ghyll cairn. But a pitch
still remains to terminate the scree, and must be climbed by him who
would assure himself of having explored the gully in its entirety.
THE PARSON’S GULLY.--An easy way of descending to upper Eskdale
other than by the Mickledore route was pointed out a few years ago by
the Rev. T. C. V. Bastow. It is by a short gully with two pitches,
due south of the summit cairn. When drift snow lies about it, it is
generally possible to walk or glissade down the whole length of the
gully on to the screes below.
CHAPTER IV
_MOSS GHYLL, COLLIER’S CLIMB, AND KESWICK BROTHERS’ CLIMB_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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