Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
My companions at Whitsuntide were Messrs. W. Brigg and Greenwood.
Neither of them had been in the ghyll before, but both were very keen
to make its acquaintance, though so far as reading could take them the
smallest details of the climb were perfectly well known. We separated
off from a larger party on the Rake’s Progress, and at the entrance
to the gully, which I have already defined in position, we roped up
and began the rock climbing at once. There are a few small and stiff
pitches that may be taken as they come in the first fifty feet of
ascent from the Progress; but we were quite willing to make the
usual divergence to the right from the entrance to the first cave. This
led us up easy grass and rock close to the gully, which soon dwindled
into utter insignificance by reason of its right wall being almost
entirely cut away. Keeping out in the open until the slope suddenly
steepened, we made a traverse into the gully, and walked up the screes
until stopped by a long and awkward-looking grass-crowned chimney. Then
we were hemmed in on both sides, and my friends were invited to define
the nature of the next move. They knew something of the locality;
we had to climb up the right-hand wall on to a level platform some
eighteen feet higher, and then work back into the ghyll by a slightly
upward traverse. The platform was the well-known Tennis Court ledge,
and its vertical wall was one of the chief difficulties of former days.
When in 1893 I had first occasion to climb the wall, there was much
ice about and it was easiest to work some way up the chimney before
stepping out on to the wall. The second attempt, two days later, was
in worse circumstances, and I preferred working directly upwards to
a still higher level before diverging. On that occasion it seemed as
though the simplest plan would have been to avoid the Tennis Court
ledge altogether and keep to the chimney. But Mr. Kempson has since
pointed out that the grass holds at the top are unreliable except when
frost holds the earth together. With Brigg and Greenwood I should
have been loth to leave the Tennis Court unvisited. So we clambered
directly up to it. The holds in the lower part of the wall were slight
but very firm. The surface was rough and reliable. Two-thirds of the
way up we found a little spike of rock that offered an admirable hold,
sufficient to belay the rope safely while rounding the top edge of the
wall and drawing up on to the platform. The others then came up with
ease, and we halted a moment to look at the view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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