How can I describe all that we saw and all that we did upon that lovely
spring day? To me it was as if I had been wafted to a fairy world, and
my uncle might have been some benevolent enchanter in a high-collared,
long-tailed coat, who was guiding me about in it. He showed me the
West-end streets, with the bright carriages and the gaily dressed ladies
and sombre-clad men, all crossing and hurrying and recrossing like an
ants’ nest when you turn it over with a stick. Never had I formed a
conception of such endless banks of houses, and such a ceaseless stream
of life flowing between. Then we passed down the Strand, where the crowd
was thicker than ever, and even penetrated beyond Temple Bar and into the
City, though my uncle begged me not to mention it, for he would not wish
it to be generally known. There I saw the Exchange and the Bank and
Lloyd’s Coffee House, with the brown-coated, sharp-faced merchants and
the hurrying clerks, the huge horses and the busy draymen. It was a very
different world this from that which we had left in the West—a world of
energy and of strength, where there was no place for the listless and the
idle. Young as I was, I knew that it was here, in the forest of merchant
shipping, in the bales which swung up to the warehouse windows, in the
loaded waggons which roared over the cobblestones, that the power of
Britain lay. Here, in the City of London, was the taproot from which
Empire and wealth and so many other fine leaves had sprouted. Fashion
and speech and manners may change, but the spirit of enterprise within
that square mile or two of land must not change, for when it withers all
that has grown from it must wither also.
We lunched at Stephen’s, the fashionable inn in Bond Street, where I saw
a line of tilburys and saddle-horses, which stretched from the door to
the further end of the street. And thence we went to the Mall in St.
James’s Park, and thence to Brookes’s, the great Whig club, and thence
again to Watier’s, where the men of fashion used to gamble. Everywhere I
met the same sort of men, with their stiff figures and small waists, all
showing the utmost deference to my uncle, and for his sake an easy
tolerance of me. The talk was always such as I had already heard at the
Pavilion: talk of politics, talk of the King’s health, talk of the
Prince’s extravagance, of the expected renewal of war, of horse-racing,
and of the ring. I saw, too, that eccentricity was, as my uncle had told
me, the fashion; and if the folk upon the Continent look upon us even to
this day as being a nation of lunatics, it is no doubt a tradition handed
down from the time when the only travellers whom they were likely to see
were drawn from the class which I was now meeting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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