One of the most solemn masses in the year is that which is celebrated on
Christmas-eve at midnight, that being the hour at which, it is supposed,
the Saviour of the world was born. It is called “The mass of the cock,”
(_misa del gallo_), as having an allusion to the hour in which it is
celebrated. The hilarity of the Spaniards on this occasion is expressed
in a way more analogous to that accompanying heathen rites, than to any
which should pertain to Christian worship. Under pretext of taking part
in so happy a commemoration, they abandon themselves, during the whole
night, to the most noisy demonstrations of joy. Numerous parties of men
and women perambulate the streets, singing couplets, called
_villancicos_, which are exclusively applicable to this feast, and
playing on two species of musical instruments, having the most abominable
sound, called _raveles_ and _zambombas_, which are never used but on this
occasion. The churches are filled with people, who are far from
conducting themselves with that decorum and moderation belonging to the
place. The jovial dispositions then manifested are encouraged by the
organ, on which are played waltzes, polkas, and even the vulgar songs
heard at dances of the lower classes; and these performances are
distinctly heard whilst the priest is saying the mass. In general, the
believers, after having taken a part in the service, give themselves up
to all the disorders of excessive eating and drinking. Nothing in modern
times approximates so nearly to the orgies of antiquity as this
celebrating “the good night” (_la noche buena_) in Spain. Sometimes the
civil authorities are obliged to put a check upon them, but we believe
there is no instance in which the clergy have made the slightest attempt
to repress such scandalous disorders. We cannot see how the most zealous
Roman Catholic can justify a practice so opposed to the true spirit of
Christianity, and so deeply rooted in the public manners, that, in the
eyes of most Spaniards, any person who would dare to censure it would
pass for an unbeliever or a heretic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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