Roman Mosaics; Or, Studies in Rome and Its NeighbourhoodMacmillan, Hugh
Philosophy
Roman Mosaics; Or, Studies in Rome and Its Neighbourhood
Macmillan, Hugh
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
About a quarter of a mile beyond the Catacombs you come to a descent,
where there is a wide open space with a pillar in the centre, and
behind it the natural rock of a peculiarly glowing red colour,
overgrown with masses of ivy, wall-flower, and hawthorn just coming
into blossom. Below the road, on the right, is a kind of piazza,
shaded by a grove of funereal cypresses; and here is the church of St.
Sebastian, one of the seven great basilicas which pilgrims visited to
obtain the remission of their sins. It was founded by Constantine, on
the site of the house and garden of the pious widow Lucina, who buried
there the body of St. Sebastian after his martyrdom. This saint was a
Gaulish soldier in the Roman army, who, professing Christianity, was
put to death by order of Diocletian. The body of the saint is said to
repose under one of the altars, marked by a marble statue of him lying
dead, pierced with silver arrows, designed by Bernini. The present
edifice was entirely rebuilt by Cardinal Scipio Borghese; and nothing
remains of the ancient basilica save the six granite columns of the
portico, which were in all likelihood taken from some old pagan
temple. It was from the nave of this church that the only Catacomb
which used to be visited by pilgrims was entered; all the other
Catacombs which have since been opened being at that time blocked up
and unknown. Indeed it was to the subterranean galleries under this
church that the name of Catacomb was originally applied.
In the valley beneath St. Sebastian, on the left, is a large
enclosure, covered with the greenest turf, and reminding one more, by
its softness and compactness, of an English park than anything I had
seen about Rome. Here are the magnificent ruins of what was long known
as the Circus of Caracalla; but later investigations have proved that
the circus was erected in honour of Romulus, the son of the Emperor
Maxentius, in the year 311. It is the best preserved of all the
ancient Roman circuses, and affords an excellent clue to the
arrangements of such places for chariot races and the accommodation of
the spectators. The external walls run on unbroken for about a
quarter of a mile. In many places the vaults supporting the seats
still remain. The spina in the centre marking the course of the races,
on either end of which stood the two Egyptian obelisks which now adorn
the Piazza Navona and the Piazza del Popolo, though grass-grown, can
be easily defined; and the towers flanking the extremities, where the
judges sat, and the triumphal gate through which the victors passed,
are almost entire. It would not be difficult, with such aids to the
imagination, to conjure up the splendid games that used to take place
within that vast enclosure; the chariots of green, blue, white, and
red driving furiously seven times round the course, the emperor and
all his nobles sitting in the places of honour, looking on with
enthusiasm, and the victor coming in at the goal, and the shouts and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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