Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
A shady little room in one of the upper stories of the Fonda de Paris
was used as reading-room. It was thickly carpeted, the walls were
covered with oil paintings in massive ornamented frames, and on the
tables were placed curious jars, antique candlesticks, bronze
statuettes, damascened daggers, and what is known as the merchandise of
_bijouterie_ and _vertu_. There were few papers there, and but one book,
a Spanish Army List in gorgeous green velvet cover with gilt clasps. In
fact, it was more of an auctioneer's private show-room than _cabinet de
lecture_, for the Brothers Fallola were dealers in _bric-à-brac_, and
could not forego the chance of poking their wares under the notice of
their customers. The Italian is first cousin to the Hebrew.
We held a grave Parliament of our own in this little room, and there I
made the acquaintance of an English settler in Spain--an elderly
gentleman who had been engaged in mining. He was well educated, had
travelled widely, was pronounced in his views, and as he expressed them
with candour and was possessed of a high order of intelligence, I
listened to him with attention. Indeed, we all accepted him as Mentor.
He indoctrinated me into the knotty catechism of Spanish politics.
Broadly speaking, he maintained that the monarchy was its own greatest
enemy. It had fallen because of its indifference to public opinion.
Among its evil genii were the pastrycook Marforio, Father Claret, and
Sister Patrocinio. The birth of a daughter to Ferdinand VII., fault of
nature, was the primal fatality. As Count O'Neil remarked when he heard
the natal salute stop at the nineteenth cannon-shot, unhappy Spain was
doomed, because of the gender of the newly-born, to be over-shadowed
with the pall of grief and mourning. But the primal error was the
unnatural marriage of Isabella to her cousin, Don Francisco. Never was
there a more ill-assorted union. A woman of ardent temperament and
strong fibre was allied to a feeble nonentity without sap or spirit. Had
she become the spouse of a man like Victor Emmanuel, things might have
gone better.
Spain was a grand country, he held, one of the richest in creation in
minerals, forests, vineyards, orchards, silk and flocks. The people were
a people that improved upon intercourse, and had some grand qualities.
But the curses of Spain were the ignorance of the masses, the greed of
the professional politicians, and the varying ascendancy of some one
man's power in the army.
"Was the country ripe for its existing form of government?" I asked.
"Government," said he, "like religion, is very much a matter of birth
and training, or, to put it more briefly, of climate. The circumcision
of Judaism, the ablutions of Mahometanism, are the simple useful
dictates of some wise man skilled in sanitary science. People of warm
southern natures crave light and colour and music in worship; in colder
lands, with dispositions hardier and less imaginative, they are
satisfied with severe forms----"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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