The art collections in St. Petersburg may give the traveller pleasant
occupation for several weeks; indeed if the tourist be an art student
he will find work for months. The Winter Palace, adjoining the
Hermitage, on the Neva, is like the palace at Versailles, conspicuous
for rooms or galleries commemorative of military exploits. Here
are well-painted battle-pieces by Willewalde and Kotzbue, also
naval engagements by Aivasovsky, highly coloured as a matter of
course. Likewise are hung the best battle-pieces I have ever seen,
by Peter Hess, the renowned Bavarian painter, who appears to less
credit in Munich than in the Winter Palace, St. Petersburg. Also
may be noted the portrait of Alexander I. by Dawe, the Englishman,
who worked much in Russia. Here likewise is the imperial gallery
of portraits of all the sovereigns of the reigning Russian house.
I pass over these multitudinous works thus briefly, because, though
the collection is of importance in the history of the empire, it
has little value in art.
"The Crown Jewels" I shall not attempt to describe; no description
of jewels can be worth much. I may venture to say, however, that
after seeing all the royal jewellery in Europe, I found these Russian
crowns, sceptres, etc., richer in diamonds than any other. Also
pearls, rubies, Siberian aqua-marines, etc., add colour and splendour
to the imperial treasure. The comparison on the spot, which I not
unnaturally instituted, was with the imperial treasury at Vienna.
Next, a word may be given to the room in which the proud, stern,
and unrelenting Nicholas died, where all is kept intact as he left
it. I have seldom been more impressed than with this small, simple,
and almost penurious apartment, so striking in contrast with the
splendour of the rest of the palace. Silence, solitude, and solemnity
all the more attach to the spot from the statement to which credence
is given that the great emperor, on learning of the reverses in
the Crimea, here committed suicide. In other words, it is said
that he directed his physician to prepare a medicine which after
having taken he died. The sword, helmet, and grey military cloak
are where he laid them. Here lies a historic tragedy which remains
to be painted; one of the most dramatic pictorial scenes in Europe,
the death of Wallenstein in Schiller's drama, painted by Professor
Piloty and now in the new Pinakothek, Munich, might in the death
of the great Nicholas find a parallel. The emperor lies buried
with all the sovereigns of Russia since the foundation of St.
Petersburg, in the cathedral fortress of St. Peter and St. Paul.
Nothing in Europe is grander in the simplicity and silence which
befit a sepulchre--not even the imperial tombs in Vienna--than
this stately mausoleum of the Tsars. The Emperor Nicholas lies
opposite to Peter the Great. In the Hermitage, or rather in the
Winter Palace, is a gallery illustrative of the life and labours of
Peter the Great. The collection, besides turning-lathes and other
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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