I have already explained the quaking spirit in which I crossed the
frontier. It so happened that Russia was the first country I visited
when appointed to take charge of the jurisdiction, and, as to so many
others, there was something forbidding to me in the very name of Russia.
I knew at that time also that my visitations would bring me, as they
have done, into contact with other sovereigns, and with great personages
in other countries, and here at St. Petersburg I was to begin with the
most unknown and, as one thought of his vast empire, most overwhelming
of them all. And then--but let me describe an audience at the palace at
Tsarskoe Selo, for it will probably interest many a reader, and also
explain how very different from a somewhat perturbed anticipation was
the pleasurable reality. I have taken care to satisfy myself beforehand
that I shall not be transgressing any of the rules of court etiquette,
nor be guilty of any breach of confidence in so doing.
Audiences abroad are always arranged through the British Embassy or
Legation. Court dress is worn in Russia, even though the reception
itself is perfectly informal, but, as court dress for a bishop consists
in being robed as for Easter services, in red chimere, etc., there was
no difficulty in providing it even for one who has to carry everything
in a couple of bags, and for months at a time.
Tsarskoe Selo--"The Tsar's village," the words mean--is a little over
half an hour by rail from Petrograd, and I was instructed to start from
the Imperial Station in Petrograd, and there walked over rich carpets,
through saluting soldiers, to the imperial train, most beautifully and
comfortably arranged with smoking, writing, and reading compartments.
Upon arrival at Tsarskoe Selo imperial carriages are always waiting for
those expected, with coachman and footman on the box, wearing bright
scarlet cloaks edged with white fur and very smart cocked hats of red
and gold.
It was a typical Russian wintry day with a tremendous blizzard blowing,
and blinding snow falling. Sentries were stationed at intervals through
the streets of the village, saluting all the imperial carriages as they
went by, although no occupant could be seen; and having passed through
it we entered the park and soon drew up at the door of the small palace
where the Emperor always resides, and which, white itself, looked that
day like a fairy palace rising up amid the snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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