Samplers and Tapestry Embroideries: Second EditionHuish, Marcus B. (Marcus Bourne)
History
Samplers and Tapestry Embroideries: Second Edition
Huish, Marcus B. (Marcus Bourne)
Embroidery -- England; Samplers -- England; Tapestry -- England
The foreign origin of the tapestries (even those which were manufactured
in England being made and designed by foreigners) accounts for the foreign
flavour which pervades their backgrounds and accessories. It has,
consequently, been asserted that the inspiration of these embroidery
pictures is also foreign, the assertion being based on the fact that the
buildings are for the most part of Teutonic design. This is not my
opinion. The buildings, it is true, for the most part assume a Flemish or
German air, but this is probably due to the reason given at the
commencement of this paragraph. It might, with equal force, be held that
the pieces are Italian in their origin, as their foregrounds, as we shall
presently show, largely affect that style. That either of these
suppositions is correct is negatived by the thoroughly English
contemporary costume that apparels the principal figures, which also
proves that the majority of the pieces were in the main original
conceptions, the designers following in the footsteps of their forerunners
from the times of Greece downwards, and clothing their puppets, no matter
to what age they appertained, in the contemporary dress of their own
country. This brings us to the most interesting feature of these little
pictures, namely, their value as mirrors of fashion.
Tapestry Embroideries as Mirrors of Fashion
In this respect they are hardly inferior, as illustrations, to the
pictures of Vandyck or the engravings of Hollar; whilst, as sidelights to
horticultural pursuits under the Stuart kings, and of the flowers which
were then affected, they are perhaps more reliable authorities than the
Herbals from whence it has been erroneously asserted that they derived
their information. In these respects their value has been entirely
overlooked. Authorities on dress go to obscure engravings, or to the
brasses or sculptural effigies in our churches, for examples, which have,
in every instance, been designed by a man unversed in the intricacies of
dressmaking. They have failed to recognise the fact that these
embroideries are the product of hands which very certainly knew the cut of
every garment, and the intricacy of every bow, knot, and point, and which
would take a pride in rendering them not only with accuracy, but in the
latest mode. It was probably due to this desire to make their work
complete mirrors of fashion, that the embroideresses gave up illustrating
the figure in the flat, and stuffed it out like a puppet, upon which each
portion of the dress might be superimposed. An illustration of this may be
seen in the reproduction on a large scale, in the text of Part III., of
some of the figures from the piece of embroidery illustrated in Plate
XXIII.[12]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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