In this latitude the sun goes down at night, and we retire to our
couches and sleep. In the morning the sun returns, and we arise to the
pursuit of our various daily avocations. But there, in the spring, the
sun never sets. There is no morning and no night. It is one continuous
day for months. At first it seems very difficult to understand this
strange thing in nature. One never knows when to sleep. The world seems
to be entirely wrong, and man grows nervous and restless. Sleep is
driven from his weary eyelids, his appetite fails, and all the
disagreeable results of protracted vigils are apparent. But gradually
he becomes used to this state of affairs, devises means to darken his
tent, and once more enjoys his hour of rest. In fact, he learns how to
take advantage of the new arrangement, and when travelling pursues his
journey at night, or when the sun is lowest, because then he finds the
frost that hardens the snow a great assistance in sledging.
The sun's rays then, falling more obliquely, are less powerful, and he
avoids somewhat the evils that beset his pathway at noontime. He is not
so much exposed to sunburn or to snow-blindness. It may sound strangely
to speak of sunburn in the frigid zone, but perhaps nowhere on the
earth is the traveller more annoyed by that great ill. The heat of
ordinary exercise compels him to throw back the hood of his fur coat,
that the cool evenings and mornings preclude his discarding, and not
only his entire face becomes blistered, but especially--if he is
fashionable enough to wear his hair thin upon the top of his head--his
entire scalp is affected about as severely as if a bucket of scalding
water had been poured over his head. This is not an exaggeration. At a
later period than that of which I am writing, Lieutenant Schwatka's
entire party, while upon a sledge journey from Marble Island to Camp
Daly, were so severely burned that not only their faces but their
entire heads were swollen to nearly twice their natural size. And a
fine-looking party they were. Some had their faces so swollen that
their eyes were completely closed upon awakening from sleep. When one
could see the others he could not refrain from laughing, so ludicrous
was the spectacle. All dignity was lost. Even the august commander of
the party was a laughing-stock, and though he knew why they laughed at
each other, he could not understand why he should excite such mirth
until he saw his face in a mirror. Then, when he tried to smile, his
lips were so thoroughly swollen that the effect was entirely lost, and
it was impossible to tell whether his expression denoted amusement,
anger, or pain. The torture resulting from these burns was so severe
that it was almost impossible to sleep. The fur bedding, which also
served the purpose of a pillow, irritated the burns like applying a
mustard-plaster to a blister. Then it was that the night was turned
into day for the rest of the journey, and during the heat of the day
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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