Scientific American Supplement, No. 430, March 29, 1884Various
Science
Scientific American Supplement, No. 430, March 29, 1884
Various
Science -- Periodicals
Those who know Mont St. Michel well, and, like the writer, have spent
several days upon the island, cannot but feel that such a scheme would
not only be a frightful disfigurement, but would entirely destroy all
the associations and the poetry of the place. Practical people will
say, "Modern improvement cannot stop in its march forward to consider
poetical associations and mere artistic whims and fancies." Now, this
would be a possible argument if Mont St. Michel were a busy, thriving
town, a commercial port, or the seat of great industries; but in a case
where the only trade is that of touting, the only visitors sightseers,
the only "stock-in-trade" mediæval remains, surely, from a practical
point of view, anything which will injure these antiquities will really
destroy the importance of the island, as its _only_ value consists in
its wonderful historic and artistic associations.
[Illustration: MONT ST. MICHEL, NORMANDY.]
The first glimpse of Mont St. Michel is strange and weird in the
extreme. A vast ghostlike object of a very pale pinkish hue suddenly
rises out of the bay, and one's first impression is that one has been
reading the "Arabian Nights," and that here is one of those fairy
palaces which will fly off, or gradually fade away, or sink bodily
through the water. Its solemn isolation, its unearthly color, and its
flamelike outline fill the mind with astonishment.
Mont St. Michel is by far the most perfect example of a mediæval
fortified abbey in existence, with its surrounding town and
dependencies, all quite perfect; just, in fact, as if time had stood
still with them since the fifteenth century. The great granite rock
rises to the height of two hundred and thirty feet out of the bay; it
is twice an island and twice a peninsula in the course of twenty-four
hours. The only approach is at low water, by driving or walking across
the sands. When, however, one arrives within a few yards of the solitary
gate to the "town," walking or driving has to be abandoned, and here
the commercial industries of the inhabitants commence. A number of
individuals, half sailors and half fishermen, are standing ready to
carry you on their shoulders over the small gully, which is very rarely
quite dry. Entering through the old gate one sees two ancient pieces
of cannon taken from the English, who unsuccessfully laid siege to the
place in 1422. Close to the gate are the two rival inns, which are very
primitive in their arrangement, the entrance hall forming the kitchen,
as in many old Breton houses. A second frowning old gateway leads to the
single street, which, passing between two rows of antique gabled houses,
and under the chancel of the little parish church, conducts one to the
almost interminable flight of stone steps leading to the gateway of
the monastery. Upon ringing the bell a polite lay brother opens the
iron-studded door, and we are admitted into a solemn, vaulted hall, with
another stone staircase opposite. Here we go up and up, to a second
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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