Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
Most tourists obtain their first view of the mountain either from the
valley of Zermatt or from that of Tournanche. From the former direction
the base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, and its ridges and
faces seem to be of prodigious steepness. The tourist toils up the
valley, looking frequently for the great sight which is to reward his
pains, without seeing it (for the mountain is first perceived in that
direction about a mile to the north of Zermatt), when all at once, as
he turns a rocky corner of the path, it comes into view, not, however,
where it is expected: the face has to be raised up to look at it—it
seems overhead. Although this is the impression, the fact is that the
summit of the Matterhorn from this point makes an angle with the eye of
less than 16°, while the Dom, from the same place, makes a larger
angle, but is passed by unobserved. So little can dependence be placed
on unaided vision. The view of the mountain from Breuil, in the Val
Tournanche, is not less striking than that on the other side, but
usually it makes less impression, because the spectator grows
accustomed to the sight while coming up or down the valley. From this
direction the mountain is seen to be broken up into a series of
pyramidal, wedge-shaped masses: on the other side it is remarkable for
the large, unbroken extent of cliffs that it presents, and for the
simplicity of its outline. It was natural to suppose that a way would
more readily be found to the summit on a side thus broken up than in
any other direction. The eastern face, fronting Zermatt, seemed one
smooth, impossible cliff from summit to base: the ghastly precipices
which face the Z’Mutt glacier forbade any attempt in that direction.
There remained only the side of Val Tournanche, and it will be found
that nearly all the earliest attempts to ascend the mountain were made
on that side.
The first efforts to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard were
made by the guides—or rather by the chasseurs—of Val Tournanche. These
attempts were made in the years 1858-’59, from the direction of Breuil,
and the highest point that was attained was about as far as the place
which is now called the “Chimney” (cheminée), a height of about twelve
thousand six hundred and fifty feet. Those who were concerned in these
expeditions were Jean-Antoine Carrel, Jean Jacques Carrel, Victor
Carrel, the Abbe Gorret and Gabrielle Maquignaz. I have been unable to
obtain any further details about them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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