Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
The next attempt was a remarkable one; and of it, too, there is no
published account. It was made by Messrs. Alfred, Charles and Sandbach
Parker, of Liverpool, in July, 1860. These gentlemen, _without guides_,
endeavoured to storm the citadel by attacking the eastern face, that to
which reference was just now made as a smooth, impracticable cliff. Mr.
Sandbach Parker informs me that he and his brothers went along the
ridge between the Hörnli and the peak until they came to the point
where the ascending angle is considerably increased. This place is
marked on Dufour’s map of Switzerland 3298 metres (10,820 feet). They
were then obliged to bear a little to the left to get on to the face of
the mountain, and afterward they turned to the right and ascended about
seven hundred feet farther, keeping as nearly as was practicable to the
crest of the ridge, but occasionally bearing a little to the left; that
is, more on to the face of the mountain. The brothers started from
Zermatt, and did not sleep out. Clouds, a high wind and want of time
were the causes which prevented these daring gentlemen from going
farther. Thus their highest point was under twelve thousand feet.
The third attempt upon the mountain was made toward the end of August,
1860, by Mr. Vaughan Hawkins, from the side of the Val Tournanche. A
vivid account of his expedition has been published by him in _Vacation
Tourists;_ and it has been referred to several times by Professor
Tyndall in the numerous papers he has contributed to Alpine literature.
I will dismiss it, therefore, as briefly as possible.
Mr. Hawkins had inspected the mountain in 1859 with the guide J. J.
Bennen, and he had formed the opinion that the south-west ridge would
lead to the summit. He engaged J. Jacques Carrel, who was concerned in
the first attempts, and, accompanied by Bennen (and by Professor
Tyndall, whom he had invited to take part in the expedition), he
started for the gap between the little and the great peak.
Bennen was a guide who was beginning to be talked about. During the
chief part of his brief career he was in the service of Wellig, the
landlord of the inn on the Æggischhorn, and was hired out by him to
tourists. Although his experience was limited, he had acquired a good
reputation; and his book of certificates, which is lying before me,
shows that he was highly esteemed by his employers. A good-looking man,
with courteous, gentlemanly manners, skillful and bold, he might by
this time have taken a front place amongst guides if he had only been
endowed with more prudence. He perished miserably in the spring of 1864
not far from his home, on a mountain called the Haut de Cry, in the
Valais.
[Illustration: J. J. BENNEN (1862)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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