In October 1871, when I joined my friend Anton Dohrn at Naples in order
to study the marine creatures of the beautiful bay, Vesuvius was in the
proud possession of a splendid cone, completing its graceful outline.
A little steam-cloud hung about one side of the cone during the day,
and as night came on Vesuvius used, as we said, to "light his cigar."
In fact, a very small quantity of molten lava was at that time flowing
from the side of the ash-cone, about 100 ft. from its summit, and this
gave a most picturesque effect as we watched it from our balcony high
up on Pausilippo, when the sun set. It was a friendly sort of beacon,
far away on the commanding mountain's top, which was answered by the
lighting up of a thousand lamps along the coast, and by innumerable
flaming faggots in the fishermen's boats moving across the bay, drawing
to their light strange fishes, to be impaled by the long tridents of
the skilful spearmen. That little beacon light on Vesuvius increased
in volume in the course of three weeks, and was supplemented by other
flaming streams and by showers of red-hot stones from the crater. This
small "eruption" was the precursor by six months of the great eruption
of the end of April 1872, and I spent a night on Vesuvius during its
progress, and looked into the crater from which the glowing masses of
rock were being belched forth.
Not long before I went, in 1871, to Naples I had spent some weeks in
visiting the extinct volcanoes of the Auvergne and of the Eiffel, and
I was eager to examine the still living Vesuvius. In the first week
of October I made an excursion to the crater of Vesuvius in company
with the son of a Russian admiral, whose name, "Popoff," was under the
circumstances unpleasantly suggestive. We examined some black slaglike
masses of old lava-streams, and struggled up the loose sandy ash-cone
(there was no "funicular" in those days), and prodded with our sticks
the few yards of molten lava which emerged from the side of the cone
about 100 ft. from the summit. On Nov. 1 my friend Anton Dohrn (who was
then negotiating with the Naples Municipality for a site in the Villa
Nazionale on which to erect the great Zoological Station and Aquarium,
now so well known) was with me and some Neapolitan acquaintances
looking at Vesuvius across the bay from Pausilippo, where we had
established ourselves, when we noticed that a long line of steam was
rising from the lower part of the ash-cone and that puffs of steam were
issuing at intervals from the crater. "Dio mio! Dio di Dio!" cried the
Neapolitans in terror, and expressed their intention of leaving Naples
without an hour's delay. As night fell a new glowing line of fire
appeared far down near the base of the ash-cone, whilst what looked
in the distance like sparks from a furnace, but were really red-hot
stones–each as big as a Gladstone bag–were thrown every two or three
minutes from the crater.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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