was the great lava-stream which had destroyed two prosperous villages in its course. After ten days I was able to get about, and drove over to one of these villages and along its main street, which was closely blocked at the end by what looked like a railway embankment some 40 ft. high. This was the side of the great lava-stream now cooled and hardened on the surface. It had sharply cut the houses, on each side of the street, in half without setting them on fire, so that the various rooms were exposed in section–pictures hanging on the walls, and even chairs and other furniture remaining in place on the unbroken portion of the floor. The villagers had provided ladders by which I ascended the steep side of the embankment-like mass at the end of the street, and there a wonderful sight revealed itself. One looked out on a great river seven miles long, narrow where it started from the broken-down crater, but widening to three miles where I stood, and wider still farther on as it descended. This river, with all its waves and ripples, was turned to stone, and greatly resembled a Swiss glacier in appearance. A foot below the surface it was still red-hot, and a stick pushed into a crevice caught fire. It was not safe to venture far on to the pie-crust surface. A couple of miles away the campanile of the church of a village called Massa di Somma stood out, leaning like that of Pisa, from the petrified mass, whilst the rest of the village was overwhelmed and covered in by the great stream.