English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
After all, the social life of the capital naturally takes its tone
and manner from the august centre round which it moves. If the Court
dines well, so do those who frequent it. The legs of mutton and apple
dumplings which satisfied the simple taste of George III. read now
like a horrid dream. Perhaps, as the digestion and the brain are so
closely connected, they helped to drive him mad. His sons ate more
reasonably; and, in a later generation, gastronomic science in high
places was quickened by the thoughtful intelligence of Prince Albert
directing the practical skill of Francatelli and Moret. Here is a
brief abstract or epitome of Queen Victoria's dinner on the 21st of
September 1841. It begins modestly with two soups; it goes on, more
daringly, to four kinds of fish; four also are the joints, followed
(not, as now, preceded) by eight _entrées_. Then come chickens and
partridges; vegetables, savouries, and sweets to the number of fifteen:
and, lest any one should still suffer from the pangs of unsatiated
desire, there were thoughtfully placed on the sideboard Roast Beef,
Roast Mutton, Haunch of Venison, Hashed Venison, and _Riz au consommé_.
But those were famous days. Fifty-four years had sped their course,
and Her Majesty's Christmas Dinner in the year 1895 shows a lamentable
shrinkage. Three soups indeed there were, but only one fish, and that
a Fried Sole, which can be produced by kitchens less than Royal. To
this succeeded a beggarly array of four _entrées_, three joints, and
two sorts of game; but the _Menu_ recovers itself a little in seven
sweet dishes; while the sideboard displayed the "Boar's Head, Baron of
Beef, and Woodcock Pie," which supplied the thrifty Journalist with
appropriate copy at every Christmas of Her Majesty's long reign.
When Lord Derby and Mr. Disraeli had succeeded in "dishing the
Whigs" by establishing Household Suffrage, they and their colleagues
went with a light heart and a good conscience to dine at the Ship
Hotel, Greenwich, on the 14th of August 1867. That was, in some
senses, a "decisive" dinner, for it sealed the destruction of the
old Conservatism and inaugurated the reign of Tory Democracy. The
triumphant Ministers had turtle soup, eleven kinds of fish, two
_entrées_, a haunch of venison, poultry, ham, grouse, leverets, five
sweet dishes, and two kinds of ice. Eliminating the meat, this is very
much the same sort of dinner as that at which Cardinal Wiseman was
entertained by his co-religionists when he assumed the Archbishopric
of Westminster, and I remember that his Life, by Mr. Wilfred Ward,
records the dismay with which his "maigre" fare inspired more ascetic
temperaments. "He kept the table of a Roman Cardinal, and surprised
some Puseyite guests by four courses of fish in Lent." There is
something very touching in the exculpatory language of his friend and
disciple Father Faber--"The dear Cardinal had a Lobster-salad side to
his character."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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