Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
But though they searched for her in vain in the setting
of sunshine and blossom their fancy had pictured,
Peripatetica and Jane found much else on their rambles—idyls
of Theocritus still being lived, quaint little
adventures, bits of local colour, new friends and old
acquaintances among contadini, animals and flowers,
and always and all about, the Bones of the Past.
Everywhere obscured under the work-a-day uses of the
Present, or rising out of them in beauty; half hidden
among flowers in lonely fields or a part of squalid modern
huts, they stumbled upon those remains of antiquity,
debased and crumbled and inexplicable often, but
beautiful with a lost strange charm, sad and haunting.
Taormina prides herself more on scenery than antiquities,
but they found many of the latter in their
scrambles on rough little mountain trails, learning all
sorts of charms and secrets undreamed of by luxurious
tourists rolling dustily in landaus along the one
high road. Theirs was an unhurried leisure to take
each day as it came. Without plans or guides they
merely wandered wherever interest beckoned, until
gradually they learned all the town and its setting of
mountain and shore by heart.
They sallied forth untrammelled of fixed destination,
ready to take up with the first adventure that offered—and
one always did offer to adventurers of such receptive
natures. They made plans only to break them;
for inevitably they were distracted by something of interest
more vital than the thing they had set out to see.
They might start, staff in hand, on a pilgrimage to
the Madonna of Rocca Bella, whose brown shrine
98nestled dizzily on one of the strange peaks shooting
their distorted summits threateningly above their own
Villa, those peaks so vividly described by another
Idle Woman in Sicily: “Behind, wildly flinging themselves
upwards, rise three tall peaks, as of mountains
altogether gone mad and raving.... The nearest
peak of a yellow-grey, splintered and cleft like a lump
of spar, and so upright that it becomes a question how
it supports itself, is divided into two heads—one thrusting
itself forward headlong over the town and crowned
with the battlements of a ruined Saracenic-Norman
castle; the other in the rear carrying the outline of a
little church, and the vague vestige of a house or two;
Saracenic-Norman castle and church (Madonna della
Rocca) both so precisely the tint of the rock that it requires
time and patience to disentangle each, and not
to put the whole down as a further evidence of mountain
insanity.”...
When Jane sat herself, muffled in furs and rugs, to
read or sew in one of the quaint tile-encrusted arbours
of the garden, those jagged peaks fell out of the sky
overhead so menacingly, coming ever nearer and
nearer to her shrinking head, that for all the sweetness
of the flowers and birds she never could stay there long,
but always, panic-struck, fled to the bare sea-terrace,
and the prospect of calm and distant Ætna.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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