Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
In those Moslem days much liberty in the practice
of religion was allowed to such of the Christians as did
not show the cross in public, read the gospel loud
enough to penetrate to Moslem ears, or ring their
church bells “furiously.” How often in Sicily one
wishes that last regulation were still in force! They
might go on worshipping freely in all existing churches
and convents, though to build new ones was not allowed.
In matters of religion the Arab was strangely
107liberal, but in civil matters he reduced the conquered
people to a sort of serfdom. Christians were not allowed
to carry arms, to ride on horseback, or even
donkeyback, to build houses as high as the Mussulman’s,
to drink wine in public, to accompany their
dead to burial with any pomp or mourning. Christian
women might not enter the public baths when
Moslem women were there, nor remain if they came
in. Christians must give way to Moslems on the street;
indoors they must rise whenever a man of the conquering
race came in or went out. “And that they
might never forget their inferiority, they had to have a
mark on the doors of their houses and one on their
clothes.” They were bid wear turbans of different
fashion and colour from Moslems, and particular
girdles of leather.
Yet many good gifts these Eastern conquerors
brought—introduction of silkworms and the mulberry,
of sugar-cane and new kinds of olives and vines;
new ways of preserving and salting fish; new processes
of agriculture and commerce; their wonderful methods
of irrigation; the clear Arabic numeration; advance
in medicine, astronomy, mathematics, all sciences; and
even “the slaves in Sicily under the Moslem rule were
better off than the Italian populations of the mainland
under the Lombards and Franks.”
Jane and Peripatetica were taking tea in the San
Domenico gardens—a flowery terrace dizzily flung out
to sea, and almost as high as their own. There is
nothing prettier in Taormina than that garden; tile-paved,
mossy stone pergolas of dense shade still breathing
108of quiet monkish meditations; open, yet sheltered,
nooks to bask in the sun, and the loveliness of the outlook
on Ætna and his sweeping foothills, and the milky-streaked
green sea; mats of fragrant sweetness, purple
and ivory, of violets and freesias; royal splash of bougainvilla
against the buff stucco of old convent walls;
coast steamers, white yachts, and tiny black fishing
boats far, far below, the only hint of the world’s bustle;
here in the garden was only slumberous quiet and
fragrant peace.
“On his terrace high in air
Nothing doth the good monk care
For such worldly themes as these.
From the garden just below
Little puffs of perfume blow,
And a sound is in his ears
Of the murmur of the bees
In the shimmering chestnut trees.
Nothing else he heeds or hears.
All the landscape seems to swoon
In the happy afternoon.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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