England -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- England; Shakespeare, William, 1564-1616 -- Homes and haunts -- England
Such a votary, for example, never
doubts that Shakespeare was a frequenter, in leisure or convivial hours,
of the ancient Red Horse inn. It stood there, in his day, as it stands
now, on the north side of Bridge Street, westward from the Avon. There
are many other taverns in the town--the Shakespeare, a delightful
resort, the Falcon, the Rose and Crown, the old Red Lion, and the Swan's
Nest, being a few of them,---but the Red Horse takes precedence of all
its kindred, in the fascinating because suggestive attribute of
antiquity. Moreover it was the Red Horse that harboured Washington
Irving, the pioneer of American worshippers at the shrine of
Shakespeare; and the American explorer of Stratford would cruelly
sacrifice his peace of mind if he were to repose under any other roof.
The Red Horse is a rambling, three-story building, entered through an
archway that leads into a long, straggling yard, adjacent to offices and
stables. On one side of the entrance is found the smoking-room; on the
other is the coffee-room. Above are the bed-rooms. It is a thoroughly
old-fashioned inn--such a one as we may suppose the Boar's Head to have
been, in the time of Prince Henry; such a one as untravelled Americans
only know in the pages of Dickens. The rooms are furnished in neat,
homelike style, and their associations readily deck them with the
fragrant garlands of memory. When Drayton and Jonson came down to visit
"gentle Will" at Stratford they could scarcely have omitted to quaff the
humming ale of Warwickshire in that cosy parlour. When Queen Henrietta
Maria was ensconced at New Place the general of the royal forces
quartered himself at the Red Horse, and then doubtless there was enough
and to spare of revelry within its walls. A little later the old house
was soundly peppered by Roundhead bullets and the whole town was overrun
with the close-cropped, psalm-singing soldiers of the Commonwealth. In
1742 Garrick and Macklin lodged in the Red Horse, and thither again came
Garrick in 1769, to direct the Shakespeare Jubilee, which was then most
dismally accomplished but which is always remembered to the great
actor's credit and honour. Betterton, no doubt, lodged there when he
came to Stratford in quest of reminiscences of Shakespeare. The visit of
Washington Irving, supplemented with his delicious chronicle, has led to
what might be called almost the consecration of the parlour in which he
sat and the chamber (No. 15) in which he slept. They still keep the
poker--now marked "Geoffrey Crayon's sceptre"--with which, as he sat
there in long, silent, ecstatic meditation, he prodded the fire in the
narrow, tiny grate. They keep also the chair in which he sat--a plain,
straight-backed arm-chair, with a haircloth seat, marked, on a brass
plate, with his renowned and treasured name. Thus genius can sanctify
even the humblest objects,
"And shed a something of celestial light
Round the familiar face of every day."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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