I think that Luxor, from its situation, usually first attracts the
notice of the traveller. It is close on the river, and is built on a
lofty platform. Its enormous columns are the first specimens of that
colossal genius of the Pharaohs, which the Ptolemies never attempted
to rival. The entrance to this temple is through a magnificent
propylon;-that is, a portal flanked by massy pyramidal moles. It is two
hundred feet in breadth, and rises nearly sixty feet above the soil.
This gate is entirely covered with sculpture, commemorating the triumph
of a conquering monarch.
On each side of the portal are two colossal statues of red granite,
buried in the sand up to their shoulders, but measuring thence, to the
top of their crowns, upwards of twenty feet. On each side of them, a
little in advance, at the time of my visit, were the two most perfect
obelisks remaining. One of them is now at Paris;--that famous obelisk of
Luxor, of which we have heard so much. From the propylon, you pass
into a peristyle court,--about two hundred and thirty feet long, by one
hundred and seventy--the roof of which was once supported by double rows
of columns, many of which now remain: and so on through other pyramidal
gates, and courts, and porticoes, and chambers, which are, in all
probability, of a more ancient date than those first described.
From Luxor you proceed to Karnak, the other great division on this side
of the river, through an avenue of sphinxes, considerably above a mile
in extent, though much broken. All the marvels of the world sink
before the first entrance into Karnak. It is the Alps-the Andes--of
architecture. The obelisks of Luxor may be unrivalled; the sculptures
of Medoenet Habu more exquisite; the colossus of the Memnonion more
gigantic; the paintings of the royal tombs more curious and instructive:
but criticism ceases before the multifarious wonders of the halls and
courts of Karnak, and the mind is open only to one general impression of
colossal variety.
I well remember the morning when I stood before the propylon, or chief
entrance of Karnak. The silver stars were still shining in the cold blue
heaven, that afforded a beautiful relief to the mighty structure, built
of a light yellow stone, and quite unstained by the winds of three
thousand years. The front of this colossal entrance is very much broader
than the front of our cathedral of St. Paul, and its height exceeds that
of the Trajan column. It is entirely without sculpture--a rare omission,
and doubtless intended that the unity of effect should not be broken.
The great door in the centre is sixty-four feet in height.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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