Soil Culture: Containing a Comprehensive View of Agriculture, Horticulture, Pomology, Domestic Animals, Rural Economy, and Agricultural LiteratureWalden, J. H.
Science
Soil Culture: Containing a Comprehensive View of Agriculture, Horticulture, Pomology, Domestic Animals, Rural Economy, and Agricultural Literature
Walden, J. H.
Agriculture -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
_Bands._--The best yet known is the inside bark of the linden or
American basswood. In June, when the bark slips easily, strip it from
the tree, remove the coarse outside, immerse the inside bark in water
for twenty days; the fibres will then easily separate, and become soft
and pliable as satin ribbon. Cut it into convenient lengths, say one
foot, and lay them away in a dry state, in which they will keep for
years. This will afford good ties for many uses, such as bandages of
vegetables for market, &c. Matting that comes around Russia iron and
furniture does very well for bands; woollen yarn and candle-wicking are
also used; but the bass-bark is best. After ten days the bands should be
loosened and retied; then, if the bud is dried, it is spoiled, and the
tree should be rebudded in another place; at the end of three weeks, if
the bud adheres firmly, remove the band entirely. Better not bud on the
south side; it is liable to injury in winter. In the spring, after the
swelling of buds, but before the appearance of leaves, cut off the top
four inches above the bud; when the bud grows, tie the tender shoot to
the stalk (growing bud in cut, _f_). In July, cut the wood off even with
the base of the bud and slanting up smoothly.
_Causes of Failure._--If you insert a blossom-bud you will get no shoot,
although the bud may adhere well. If scions cut for buds remain two
hours in the sun with the leaves on, in a hot day, they will all be
spoiled. The leaves draw the moisture from the bud, and soon ruin it.
Cut the leaves off at once. If you use buds from a scion not fully
grown, very few of them will live; they must be matured. If the top of
the branch selected be growing and very tender, use no buds near the top
of it. If in raising the bark to make room for the bud, you injure the
soft substance between the bark and the wood, the bud will not adhere.
If the bud be not brought in close contact with the stalk and firmly
confined there, it will not grow. With reasonable caution on these
points, not more than one in fifty need fail.
_Time for Budding._--This varies with the season. In the latitude of
central New York, in a dry season, when everything matures early, bud
peaches from the 15th to the 25th of August--plums, &c., earlier. In wet
and great growing seasons, the first ten days in September are best.
Much budding is lost on account of having been done so late as to allow
no time for the buds to adhere before the tree stops growing for the
season. If budding is performed too early, the stalk grows too much over
the bud, and it gums and dies. It is utterly useless to bud when the
bark is with difficulty loosened; it is always a failure.
BUSHES.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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