South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
The high outside rim of the cup was about 2¼ miles round, with a
diameter of 1,500 yards; and the circle was nearly as perfect as that of
a cup. Down thence to the salt lake at the bottom the inside of the bowl
fell steeply but gradually, and was thickly covered with bush. The
perfect regularity of shape was, to the eye, the most wonderful feature
of the phenomenon. At the bottom to which we descended lay the shallow
salt lake, which at the time of our visit was about half full,--or half
covered, I might better say, in describing the gently shelving bottom of
which not more than a moiety was under water. In very dry weather there
is no water at all,--and then no salt. When full the lake is about 400
yards across.
Some enterprising Englishman had put up a large iron pan 36 feet by 20,
and 18 inches deep, with a furnace under it, which, as everything had
been brought out from England at a great cost for land transit, must
have been an expensive operation. But it had been deserted because the
late Government had been unable to protect him in the rights which he
attempted to hire from them. The farmers of the neighbourhood would not
allow themselves to be debarred from taking the salt,--and cared nothing
for the facts that the Government claimed the privilege of disposing of
the salt and that the Englishman had bought the privilege. The
Englishman therefore withdrew, leaving behind him his iron pan and his
furnace, no doubt with some bitter feelings.
It is probable, I believe, that another Englishman,--or a
Scotchman,--will now commence proceedings there, expecting that Downing
Street will give better security than a Republican President. In the
meantime our friend the Boer pays £50 per annum to the Government, and
charges all comers some small fine per load for what they take. Baskets
are inserted into the water and are pulled up full of slush. This is
deposited on the shore and allowed to drain itself. On the residuum
carbonate of soda rises, with a thick layer, as solid cream on standing
milk;--and below this there is the salt more or less pure,--very nasty,
tasting to me as though it were putrid,--but sufficing without other
operation for the curing of meat and for the use of cattle. I was told
by one of our party that the friable stone which we found all around is
soda-feldspar from which, as it melts in the rain, the salt is brought
down. Here, at this place, there is but one crater;--whereas at other
places of a like nature, as in New Zealand and Central America, I have
seen various mouths crowded together, like disjected fragments of a
great aperture down into the earth. Here there is but the one circle,
and that is as regular as though it had been the work of men’s hands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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